On the right track

 Last day in Tunisia. I woke early, and went down to the dining hall for breakfast. It was one of the best so far. With several stations bulging with food. And to my delight : Crepes. They were my favorite when I was a kid. Just plain with sugar. I had more than my fair share. Enjoyed the breakfast outside in front of the pool. The morning breeze was nice. I sat there for a while just enjoying my self. I wasn't planning to leave until 3, so I had plenty of time.
I had already packed my bags, so I was ready. Before checking out, I went to a local store and bought some snacks for lunch. The restaurants were closed. So that had to do. I spent the hours waiting in the lobby. Watching the guests and employees go about their business. And chatting with friends and family.
I had found yesterday that there was a train station just outside of Hammamet. It was the very station I was unable to pronouce the day before at the loage station in Sousse. Gare de Bir Bouregba. I gte a taxi, and he drove me there through some thick traffic. "Souk!" he said as we passed the souk. I nodded and smiled. Finally, we arrived at the station. I had read about the classes. 1, 2 and Comfort. I wanted the latter, since it had aircon.
I walked over to the ticket counter. "Tunis! Confort!" I said. "4 dinar" he said. I thought it sounded cheap, but though nothing more of it. He gave me my ticket, and I looked at it. To check that it was indeed for Tunis. 4 dinar was cheap! But then I checked again. Ah! 2'nd class. Oh well. I am a working class boy, so... And I thought it would be interesting to see what 2'nd class was like in Tunisia. I checked the schedule, and the train should arrive at 17.06. It arrived at 16.01. But of course. I entered 2'nd class. Ok. THIS was second class. Seats collapsing, and dirty as a cowboy's clothes after crossing a desert in a storm. I sat down before I realized it was dust, and not just paled colour. Everybody had to undust their seats. And clothes. And the temperature? Just ripe for baking bread, I believe. 

 

I decided to go back to the entrance, as it often can be cooler. And it was indeed. They were obviously sporting an open door policy here. So who needs aircon? I got fresh air and the best view in the train. I stood there most of the trip. Watching nature and small towns zoom past the door. 

After about an hour, we arrived at the Tunis main station.

After such great experiences with taxies in Hammamet, I decided I wanted to try again the taxi drivers in Tunis. I walked over to a taxi. "Airport!" I said. He nodded. I put my bag in the trunk. "Cince dinars, ok?" "what?" He showed me 15 ($5) with his fingers. "For bag!" He smiled. Oh crap! Don't they ever give up? I shook my head and sighed. Deeply. I pulled my backpack out of his trunk. He started negotiating the price. I was done negotiating. I decided to walk to the Tunis Marina to take the bus. I checked the map. Tunis marina was just a short walk. When I arrived, I started looking for the bus station. I seem to remember that it was supposed to be around the Marina. I checked the map, and I didnt find it. I stood there for a minute. Contemplating my options. Then I checked the map. 7 km to the airport. Oh, well. Not the first time. So I started walking.
The temperature was nice. And with my average walking speed, I found I would be at the airport just around sundown. Perfect. I found a lesser used road to walk beside. Closer to the water than the new highway. And after a while, I noticed a lot of young people with cars and motorcycles burning rubber. And particularly on a longer straight stretch of the road. Cars were lined up on each side. And young guys on motorcycles where burning back and forth. Riding on their back wheels, or drifting, or doing tricks. I got the "fast and furious" vibe from the whole scene. Guys with beamers drifting around the roundabouts. A lot of young guys and girls watching and cheering. I shot a couple of short videos of guys riding on their back wheels.
As I was closing in on the airport, my shoulders were starting to ache. No wonder. I had walked from the train station to the airport. 9 km.
It was a relief to drop my bags off by the table of a small diner. I needed some chow and some water. It was good to sit down. And the water worked its wonder. Now I only had to wait for a few hours till the checkin-counter opened. My plane leaves at 2.15 am. It will be a long night.
In retrospect, this has been a great trip. Not only because it was my first in a couple of years, but also because Tunisia was a great destination. With diverse places, wonderful food, friendly people (save for taxidrivers in Tunis...) and lots to see and experience. Both for the "off-the-beaten-track"-guy like me, and for those who prefer an all-inclusive hotel with a pool and the pizza place nearby. Tunisia has had its share of problems. And some still exists. But I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a visit. I haven't checked if there are package tours to places like Sousse and Hammamet, but I wouldn't be surprised.
This is me, logging off for the last time in Tunisia. At the table of the diner. Still waiting for the checkin for my flight to open. Till next time!

Ragnar
Going home

Waves in the bath

My last day in Sousse, and I would head up to my last stop of the trip. Hammamet. Hammamet literally means "bath", and gives away its lure to the world. It was the first tourist spot in Tunisia. And it still is one of the most important. According to Wikipedia, the population grows from just under 100 000 to over 400 000 during the tourist season.

I got up early. Couldn't sleep longer. I guess my body and mind is ready to go back to the grind. This morning, I was a bit weary about one of the glass elevators. I love these elevators, but yesterday, one of them felt a bit icky. After it closed the doors, it moved about 10 cm, then topped abruptly, and shook. Then a few seconds later, it moved normally. I had noticed that its floor was about 10 cm above the threshold. So I guess that was the reason. After breakfast, I spent some time in my room just watching a movie. I wouldn't be able to check in to my hotel in Hammamet until 2 in the afternoon anyways. I opted to walk to the louage station this time too. The weather was fine. Not too hot, not too cold. After the movie had finished, I took one final look at the ocean before heading out of my room. When I came to the elevator, One lady stood there. "No working", she said and pointed to the elevator that had been icky yesterday. Its floor was now 25 cm above the normal level. And since the system registered that it was there, it refused to get the other one up. I tried pressing the buttons in the elevator. Hoping it would leave. But nothing happened. It wa stuck. In the end, I took the fire escape down. 

At the reception, I tried to explain that the elevator was stuck on the 5th floor. The receptionist didn't understand. He called upon the manager. He came, and I told him "the elevator is stuck on the fifth floor". He looked puzzled. "What do you mean? You have room on fifth floor! Here is the key! What is the problem?" I pointed to the elevator shaft. "Elevator! Stuck! Fifth floor!" His eyes flared. "AH!" and he started arguing with the guys in the reception. Lots of handwaving and arguing. I just said "bye!" and left the circus. This clown was going.

It was a nice walk. An since I got a bit warm after a while, my nose did of course dive into one of the freezers on the sidewalk. The ones with icecream in them... I found and interesting one. "Cheese cake!". Yummy. Two of my favorites in one. Ice cream and chees cake! I let my teeth sink in. It did indeed taste like cheese cake! Smiling like a baboon with a banana, I walked on, with my cheescake on a steek.

A surprisingly short time later, I arrived at the louage station. I hopped into the public toilet. After finishing my business, i arrived at the only sink, planning to wash my hands. A guy was already there. Washing his hands, his face, and then proceeded with washing his feet. In the sink. I pulled out my hand sanitizer. Maybe another time...

I found that the ginormous louage station was well organized. And there were lines with signs above them telling where they were going. Unfortunately, I found none for Hammamet. Or any place beyond Hammamet. After searching for a while, I decided to try the ticket booth for Tunis. I was lucky. The guy behind the opening nodded. 7.5 dinars. 

Tickerteer : "But you not go to Hammamet. You go to <insert something imcomprehensible here>!"

Me : "Say what"

Ticketeer : (smiling) "<Insert something incomprehensible starting with 'b'>"

Me : "Repeating something that sounded like "<Insert something incomprehensible starting with 'b'>"

Ticketeer : Smiling and nodding. "There is your car!" he pointed to the first in line

It took me about 1.3 seconds to completely forget what he said. But I knew that there would be a station close to Hammamet. Our louge left shortly after. The driver zoomed out on the highway. The first I have seen here with a toll booth... And drove like he had stolen the car. I kept an eye on the map as we zoomed north. After half an hour, he stopped at a crossroad not far west from the city. He pointed east. "Hammamet! Taxi!". Ok. I and a few others got out and I opted for a taxi. 8 more kilometers with a backpack was a bit more than I wanted. But unlike the taxidrivers in Tunis, this one did nothing to scam me. He used the meter without any extras. And it was a pleasant experience. I tipped him a few dinars. I don't mind the price. Its the ripoffs and outright scams I hate.

The hotel was nice. And it seems to me like they are desperate for customers. I guess two years of pandemic shutdown has taken its toll. A lady sat down with me and told me everything they had to offer, and if I needed anything or had any questions, just ask. She gave me two bracelets. One would show that I was a resident, and the other that I should have breakfast. I felt like an antendee to a rock festival. 

I was given a room on the upper floor

Not sure how to interpret this message in the elevator...

And the ocean view! Yes! This is the way to end my trip here in Tunisia. I sat out on the balcony for a long time, just watching and listening to the waves crashing on the beach. I love that sound. It is so soothing. Probably because I grew up by the sea. I was used to hearing that sound when I was young. Familiarity is soothing, I guess. 

I had a long walk too. Most was closed in town, save for the usual hole-in-the-wall shops selling siggys, water and snacks. And they even had a local "hey I work at your hotel!". He smiled at me, and I smiled back. This probably triggered him into his routine. "Hey, I work at your hotel! I made you omelette this morning, remember?" "Really? At which hotel?" He said the name of another hotel in the group I stay at. He picked the wrong one. "I don't stay there!" I said. He promptly turned and split.

This evening, I wanted to find some local chow. But everywhere I went, all restaurants were closed. Only coffe-shops packed with chainsmoking coffe-drinkers were open. In the end, the only restaurant I found, was a pizza-place run by an italian guy. So at least the pizza was authentic. It was delicious. Even though I would have preferred something local. 

Full of food I headed back to the hotel. Stopped by a shop to buy some water for the evening. Back at the hotel, I went out to the balcony, and looked up at the stars. Leo hanging straight up. I snapped a picture with my phone. Later this year, I am heading down south to Namibia for some real star-gazing. Looking forward to that. 

 

After some time on the balcony enjoying the sound of the waves. I was ready to hit the sack. It had been a good day. Tomorrow, I will go to Tunis. My flight home leaves in the night. It has been a great trip, but it is ok to go home now. I have seen what I wanted. I have been where I wanted. Save for Thala. And even though I have just touched the surface, I feel I have at least glimpsed some of what this country has to offer. 

Ragnar

Ready for my next adventure

 

A walk on the beach

 I was originally planning to take a taxi to Monastir today to see the socalled ribat. But decided to just have a walk on the beach instead. And I am glad I did. As will be clear later. I could see Monastir across the bay from my hotel.

At the end of the beach, there was a small pier, where an old man had put up his fishing rods. The wind was strong and thus the beaches were mostly empty.

It was quite windy today

Looks like some hotels didn't survive the pandemic

It was a long walk, and I was sweaty and ready for some icecream. So I found a small hole-in-the-wall. Delicious! After being refreshed, I walked through the streets packed with tourists and souvenir-sellers. I decided to buy a souvenir. 

I have stopped buying stuff everywhere. I have two large boxes of souvenirs stored away. I have no place to put them or display they. So they are just laying there. So in the past few years, I have resortet to buy fridge magnets. A cheesy souvenir I know. But easier to place. Although the fridge is also getting full...

I walked out of the shop, happy with my purchase. And walked passed several "I work at your hotel" guys. And other stuff. But then something intersting cought my eye. I realized it looked like the ribat in Monastir. And indeed it was. I paid for a ticket and walked around for a while. Especially delightful was the fact that I could climb up the stairs to the top of the tower. The stairs were as narrow and steep as the ones on the statue of liberty. And at some points, it was pitch dark, so I needed to feel my way up the steps. The view from up there was magnificent. I could almost imagine how it would be to stand up there and watching attackers coming. 

After coming back to the hotel, I found out that the ribat here in Sousse may not be the biggest, but it was actually the oldest. So no point in going to Monastir to see such a structure. Here are some images I took of it.

My guide met me at the entrance

Worn down by a lot of steps

The narrow stairs up the tower

Finally at the top

Spectacular view

 

Tonight I decided also to get some street food. There are plenty of burger-/pizza- and pasta-places. But I was more in for some kebabs or something similar. I found a back street a bit away from the typical touristy places. A small hole in the wall shop. The owner lit up when I came into his shop. He let me taste the meat and the fries. "Good eh?". It was indeed. I sat down on one of the tables and munched away on the lovely chawarma. 

Yesterday, there was a lot of noise from downstairs in the hotel. I thought it was drunk guests. But when I came back to the hotel, I realized it was actually a childrens club. Singing and dancing... Oh well. Last night at the hotel. I stepped outside on the baclony and enjoyed the cool evening. Tomorrow, I will head out the last stop on my journey; Hammamet. One night there before heading home.

Ragnar

Beachwalker

Down by the oceanside

 The vacaction is nearing its end. And I had decided to spend some days down by the coast as well. Jst for some R&R and some more if I could find it. I got up early and went down to eat.

After a delicious breakfast, I packed my stuff and walked to the louage station. On the way I passed a butcher's shop. I had wanted to take a picture of these, that usually hung outside such shops. But this was the only time I didn't see any people around. Don't why they do that. I mean. There usually hang a complete oxe carcass right beside it. So I guess it is obvious that this is a butchers shop. But anyways.

I was surprised how few were going to Sousse. So I had to sit and wait for quite a while before the louage was full and we could leave. At one point I contemplated just paying for the last few seats. Bt I didn't want to create that "hey, I'm a rich, white guy, and I have money to pay my way everywhere." But eventually, a couple of guys showed up, and we were off. 

Half an hour later, we stopped outside the louage station in Sousse. It was ginormous. And from the map, on the other side of the city from my hotel. 8 km. I have become fond of walking, so I decided to try it this time too. Or catch a taxi if I found it to be too long. But it was a nice walk. And as I closed in on the hotel, it was obvious that Sousse is a tourist destination. Souvenir shops. Western style food. And lots and lots of people wanting to "know me"...

Is Imprial Gifs the new NFT?

I arrived at the hotel, and the receptionist were the impersonation of customer service. Huge lobby. Lots of foreigners. I checked in. And as I was about to pick up my bags, a porter was there to help me carry them. Wow! First time ever! He followed me all the way up to my room on the 5 floor. So I could enjoy the glass elevator.

View from the elevator

After the porter had dropped off my bags, I gave him a tip. And then had a stroll around the area. It felt very much like any typical package tour place. Complete with your local scammers. One guy walked over to me, and then turned to walk the same way as me. Then he turned around and "was surpised to see me". "Hey! I work at your hotel!" Awww. That old line! I haven't heard that one since Ghana. Good memories. I smiled. "Sure you do!". He got the message and split. After him came the "good guy". The one telling me that the last one was a scammer. And where am I from? Having a good time? Just like all scammers. Getting the trust of their marks. After a while, they all gave up. They realized I wasn't having any of their routine. So they left to search for more inexperienced ones. 

All in all a walk down memory lane. 

Don't know what I will do tomorrow. Time will show.

Ragnar

Sea air sniffin

Catwalk in the medina

When I checked in, the receptionist wanted to know when I wanted breakfast. I got the feeling I was again lonely in the hotel. And they didn't want to wait forever with the breakfast. I said 8-ish. And this morning, I kept my promise. And a healthy dose of breakfast was served. And best of all : Freshly made lemonade. It was d-lish! And they had a coffe-maker that made hot chocolate. What wasn't there to like? Half an hour later, I was full and satisfied. And as I left, the other guests at the hotel arrived. A couple from Germany. We exchanged pleasantries before I headed back to my room.

Today, I would check out the medina. I had a quick look yesterday, and found the medina to be enclosed in tall walls. Nice! And today, I went on a long exploration of all the tiny streets. I probably missed half of them. Even though I spent about 5 hours there. Walking back and forth. Through narrow streets barely enough for two people to pass, to those wide enough to sorta let a car pass. If I jumped up on a door frame...

The outer walls and the central mosque:

I mostly just wandered around, enjoying the view, but I also snapped some images along the way. Of narrow streets, and markets.

When wandering around, I noticed two things. One was the sheer number of cats. Or it felt like a great number of cats walking around. Some places it felt like they had ganged up. Like "this is our corner" type ganged up. And when another cat came by, they all started howling at it. And the stranger soon turned and left. I thought it was funny, so I did take a lot of pictures of them. Here is a sample.

This guy was eye'ing a gang behind me.

Checking out the local gang

Chillin in the sun

In addition, I noticed a lot of doors had hands on them. They may have been door knockers. I don't know. I didn't try... But it was interesting to see. I photographed a few of them on a variety of doors.

Tomorrow, I will be heading down to the coast. WIll be spending my last few days by the sea. Or at least, my hotels will be there. I might be heading to other places. We will see where my nose is pointing when I wake up.

Ragnar

Lost and found