tirsdag 4. april 2023

A man in Amman

 I was a bit sceptical about the short time between the flights in Copenhagen. 1 hour 10 minutes is far less than I am comfortable with. But I was hoping for no delay. Or at least little delay from Oslo. Since these where two companies, I knew that they would not be able to do anything if the flight from Oslo was too late. And then my worst fears came to fruition. Our flight out of Oslo was no less than 45 minutes delayed. When we landed, I checked the flight to Amman. "Closed" the info said. "Noooooo!" I was contemplating what a vacation in Copenhagen would be like. A couple that was going on the same flight said. "Lets run!" And we did. Elbowed our way through the crowds and ran through passport check. When I saw the sign for gate C35, my body was nearing cardiac arrest. I felt nauseous. Gasping for air, I slammed my passport on the counter. The lady behind the desk smiled and said "There is a line!" I turned to see a man standing there. "Oh, sorry!" 

I was trying to regain my breath when I realized they had gotten information about a bunch of people coming due to late incoming flight. And they were trying to accomodate everybody. Finally it was my turn. The lady behind the desk discussed a lot with her colleagues. Then she turned to her supervisor. "Business?" she said among other arabic words I didn't understand. Her super nodded. A few moments later, She had my boarding card. She smiled "since you came late, I have upgraded you to business class!". I smiled. "Well, in that case, I will be late next time too!" She laughed. "Have a nice trip sir!"

I settled in my seat. 2A. Business class. Wide seats with all kinds of amenities. But it took the best part of half an hour before my cough stopped. I had overstrained my body running. But finally, it gave and I could enjoy a 3 course meal and a relaxing atmosphere. Watching the clouds drift by underneath us. And after a few short hours, the lights of Amman appeared. 

I had found that there was something called a Jordan Pass. This has to be the greatest deal of all times. With this, you dont have to pay visa fee, and you get entry to Petra for two days and access to 40+ sites. All for the price of the Petra tickets alone. So I was given a "free visa" and after passport control, and for once in my life, not being picked for thorough search in customs. I was in Jordan!

I had also read up on the taxi situation. Too many countries have scam taxis. I have bee a victim of several. But not in Jordan. You go up to a counter, tell them where you are going, and they set the price. Then you go to the taxi stand, and you already have the price. They cannot make up another price. Whats on the ote is your price. Half an hour later, we arrived at my hotel. It was getting late, so I was tired. Wa slooking forward to kicking my shoes off. My surprise was huge when I saw the room. More like a suite with its own livingroom. Loved it. I slept like a baby the whole night.

Today, I planned to go to the see the roman theatre and the citadel. I opted to walk. Not to save money, but rather because in my experience, I get to see more of normal life. People going about their business. Kids playing. And I get to see parts of the city I usually would just zoom by in a taxi. And of course, its good exercise...

But first, a cold shower got me started. No warm water. Obviously, I was to late. It was a chilling experience. Since it is now ramadan, no breakfast restaurant. But they came to my room with a plate full of delicious cheese, meat and bread. And a glass of juice. As a tourist, I am allowed to eat and drink. But I tend to try not to eat in front of everybody else. So eating in my room suites me fine. Just like in Iran, I ate at the hotel. Trying not to lead the fasting astray.


 

After a filling meal, I was ready to stride into the street sof Amman. I had looked at a route down to the roman theatre. It would lead me down to the city centre. The citadel was close by so I would be able to do a double whammy. Some images from the walk down.

Much street art here and there

No thanks






The morning was a bit nippy, but that suited me fine. I had come direct from winter at home. But by the time I reached the roman theatre. I was sweating. I wanted to have a drink of water, so I went to a public bathroom and snuck a long drink. It was refreshing. Then I entered the theatre. It was huge! According to the information board, it was designed to hold up to 6000 people. Row after row up till a dizzying height. It was dividied into three sections. The lower was for senators and the elite. The mid for the "common citizens" and the upper for slaves, foreigners and other "trash". But it was interesting that they were allowed in at all. 

 

I climbed to the top. Gasping for air as I climbed. I am not in a good shape! And it gives why the senators and the elite had the lower seats. They were usually not the slimmest people, so they would probably have died if they tried to climb to the top.

I loved sitting there, catching my breath, and contemplating what it must have been like back in the days. Seeing plays. Maybe concerts? Escaping daily life for a short period. Who knows?


 

A smaller theatre nearby. Now used for concerts


The theatre seen from the citadel

 

After spending some time here, my next target was visible from the top. The citadel. One could see the walls surrounding it on top of a hill. I walked over, and of course, there were a ton of steep steps to get to it. I think I am getting into shape on this trip. I have to admit it was a bit disappointing. Apart from the walls, there wasnt much left. Save from a few columns and a sistern for water. But it was interesting all the same to try to imaging living here. Overlooking the surrounding areas. And it was obvious why this was a brilliant location for a fortified city. Steep hill on all sides made it almost impossible to attack for a army of soldiers.

Stairs to the citadel

And some more....

....and some more...

Finally at the top....

  
Clay sarcofagus found during a dig


Ok?.....



 

At this point, I had walked for hours. I was tired and thirsty. So I decided to call it a day and walk back to my hotel. I tried a new route back just to see something different. The new route wasnt so busy. And with less traffic. So I liked it better. The first one was selected for me by Google maps... So an advice: Do not follow the recommended route just because it is recommended. Try some alternatives. You have the map anyways. So you can find your way back of you get lost.

Later in the evening, when the sun was setting, I was ready for some local street food. Of course, there are a lot fo restaurants in the city center. But I wanted some street food. After a lot fo searching, I found a hole-in-the-wall place. Packed with customers. They served chicken kebabs and sandwitches. I bought a sandwich. After waiting a god 10 minutes and watching the people who had fasted the whole day eating like they hadn't eaten all day...well...technically they hadn't....my sammy was ready. I walked off and stood by the sidewalk and enjoyed it. Delish juicy and perfectly seasoned. A perfect ending to my first day in Jordan.


 


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