Contemplating the stars above

"Do not complain under the stars of the lack of bright spots in your life"

                                                                                    - Henrik Wergeland

When I was 4 years old, I was allowed to stay out after dark. And one of those evenings, the skies were clear. And I could see the stars. While the other kids on my street were playing, I was transfixed by the sight above my head. I ran inside to ask my mom. What were those lights? She told me they were suns. Far away. My young mind was blown for the first time. Even at the age of 4, I understood that they needed to be very far away. 

Ever since that evening, the universe has continued to fascinate and thrill me. And for the past few years, I have also realized that it has been a source of therapy through my life. On multiple occasions, when I have been on a highpoint in my life, standing under a starry sky, has been a source of joy. And during the lowest points in my life, when the emotional pain has seemed unbearable, I have been standing under the stars. Dreaming away to another place. Another life. 

I once stood by my fathers grave. And I was suddenly aware of a familiar sound. The sound of the waterfalls of the rivers running down the steep sides of the mountain nearby. I grew up with those sounds. When the snow melted or when the rainstorms hit, their waters crashed down. My father brought his small family to this town when I was a small child. 30 years later, I carried him to his final resting place. In this town he met successes and failures. He worked hard and supported his family. Built a home with his own hands. 30 years after he arrived, his life was over. The sound of the rivers reminded me of the short time we spend on this earth. My father's life may have been full. But to the rivers, it was a mere blink of an eye.

Every time I have been to Namibia, just watching the stars with a naked eye has been soothing to me. Their brilliant shine is the same now as the first time I glimpsed them almost 50 years ago. Compared to my life, they are eternal. They look the same now as they did when Jesus walked on Earth 2000 years ago. Eternity imprinted on the dark skies above.

This time around, for a personal reason I will not reveal, the starry skies above held a special significance. And one of the nights, when everybody else had gone to bed, I stood there for a long time. Thinking. With mixed feelings. Both in pain and in gratitude. The stars above has for the past few years gotten a new meaning in my life. And their shine has been forever changed to my eyes.

And that new meaning will be with me all my days.

 

Blowing in the wind

Answers are not blowing in the wind, but our telescopes definitely are.

For the past few days, the wind has been relentless. And for a day or two, visual observing has been next to impossible. Luckily, imaging has fared better. Mostly because our telescopes are smaller, and therefore doesn't get caught that much by the winds. 

 

During the nights, the winds have rattled the windows and door of the rooms. Luckily, I have slept well despite this. I guess I am used to sleeping during a storm. Having grown up at the weatherbeaten northwest of Norway, I am not unfamiliar to strong winds. But I had hoped we would have been spared of it here in Namibia. Time is precious for us. We had 12 nights here. And this is the first time I have seen this much "weather" here. This is my fifth time, and I had previously (witha total of 50 nights) only had ONE night lost due to weather. 

But the images that I have taken seems to not have suffered too much. I have been able to take photos of some truly wonderful objects. My favorites under the southern skies. And I hope I will be able to process them carefully enough in the coming weeks and months to truly bring out the beauty of them. 

Omega Centauri, the amazing globular cluster. A giant ball of stars shining so brilliantly it actually burns into your retina. 

Eta Carina nebula. A vast swath of hydrogen gas glowing deep red in the skies. With so much details it is a feast to the eyes and mind.

Trifid nebula. A red and blue gas nebula resembling a flower. 

The amazing Antares area where yellow, red, blue and brown/dark gas and dust areas are visible within a small area around the giant star Antares.

I only hope I have been able to capture at least some of their splendor and beauty. Time will show.

The days here in Namibia are lazy. We spend much of the evening and night looking at objects in the skies, so during the days, we often sleep a little. Eat too much. And plan for the next night. 

With a view like this for breakfast...

...and this at dinner, no wonder we eat too much...

New Moon last night

 

But we also do some eploring of the surroundings. A group of us went on a 3 hour trip around the farm, seeing animals and great sites. I was not one of them. Maybe next time. But I did join the trip to a nearby observatory called HESS. High Energy Stereoscopic System. 5 giant telescopes working in union to observe high energy radiation from deep space. I have been there multiple times, but I love the site, and looking at the giant telescopes.

Our ride for the day

Dusty roads

The five telescopes, in their parking position

Currently, this is the largest optical telescope in the world

One of the smaller telescopes, with its camera protected in a shed

Great for selfies...

The big one!

The camera holder. The camera weighs several tons...

Another selfie with one of the scientists looking on...

Shadows on the red sand

On our way back, a herd of springbock ran across a field

One stopped to look at us

 

Around the astrofarm, there is ample opportunity for walks. 

 

And of course, the local cats don't mind some petting... 

At the time of writing, we have two more nights here. So I will try to make the best of it and catch as many photons as possible before I have to pack my bags and telescope for the long journey home. The Namibian adventure is coming to an end. Way too soon. As always.

Ready for a new night under the stars

Southern beauty

The engines of the 330 roared into life. Half a minute later, we were in the air. The bright lights of Frankfurt became fainter and fainter as we ascended into the skies. We were not ony leaving Europe behind, but also lightpollution. And the glow of Frankfurt was a perfect reminder of this. 

 

10 hour later, just after 8 in the morning, we touched down on the airport in Windhoek, Namibia. My fifth time in this astronomy heaven. Where the skies are more or less clear every night for months. 

 

After some initial wait, our drivers finally arrived to take us for a 3 hours drive into the desert. It was clear that Namibia had seen much needed rains. The last time, most of the vegetation was dry and dead. Now it was green everywhere. 

 

The drive was nice. With long, dusty roads. Some local wildlife showing up here and there to greet us. Baboons and worthogs. Finally, we arrived at the astrofarm. High in the mountains. Almost 2km above sea level. Here we will be staying for two weeks. Exploring the skies. Taking photos. And enjoying the area and the views. 

One of the locals greeting us

This time around, when night fell, it was obvious that there was something different in the skies. The sundown was more colourful and lasted longer than before. Obviously, dust from the Tonga eruption filled the atmosphere. Invisible in places that I am used to. But here, with its pristine air and dark skies, it became obvious. The skies were brighter than before. But even with this added "bonus", it was amazing to see the skies again. Where the Milkyway is so bright that it casts a shadow on the dark ground. 

 

 

I don't need a telescope to enjoy the view. I can stand for hours just looking at the stars. Shining brighter than anywhere else. The dark bands of the Milkyway. Dreaming away into the night sky. Ever since I was a little kid at 4 or 5, I have stared at the stars. In wonder. And awe. And I probably always will.

 

Ragnar

Stargazer

On the right track

 Last day in Tunisia. I woke early, and went down to the dining hall for breakfast. It was one of the best so far. With several stations bulging with food. And to my delight : Crepes. They were my favorite when I was a kid. Just plain with sugar. I had more than my fair share. Enjoyed the breakfast outside in front of the pool. The morning breeze was nice. I sat there for a while just enjoying my self. I wasn't planning to leave until 3, so I had plenty of time.
I had already packed my bags, so I was ready. Before checking out, I went to a local store and bought some snacks for lunch. The restaurants were closed. So that had to do. I spent the hours waiting in the lobby. Watching the guests and employees go about their business. And chatting with friends and family.
I had found yesterday that there was a train station just outside of Hammamet. It was the very station I was unable to pronouce the day before at the loage station in Sousse. Gare de Bir Bouregba. I gte a taxi, and he drove me there through some thick traffic. "Souk!" he said as we passed the souk. I nodded and smiled. Finally, we arrived at the station. I had read about the classes. 1, 2 and Comfort. I wanted the latter, since it had aircon.
I walked over to the ticket counter. "Tunis! Confort!" I said. "4 dinar" he said. I thought it sounded cheap, but though nothing more of it. He gave me my ticket, and I looked at it. To check that it was indeed for Tunis. 4 dinar was cheap! But then I checked again. Ah! 2'nd class. Oh well. I am a working class boy, so... And I thought it would be interesting to see what 2'nd class was like in Tunisia. I checked the schedule, and the train should arrive at 17.06. It arrived at 16.01. But of course. I entered 2'nd class. Ok. THIS was second class. Seats collapsing, and dirty as a cowboy's clothes after crossing a desert in a storm. I sat down before I realized it was dust, and not just paled colour. Everybody had to undust their seats. And clothes. And the temperature? Just ripe for baking bread, I believe. 

 

I decided to go back to the entrance, as it often can be cooler. And it was indeed. They were obviously sporting an open door policy here. So who needs aircon? I got fresh air and the best view in the train. I stood there most of the trip. Watching nature and small towns zoom past the door. 

After about an hour, we arrived at the Tunis main station.

After such great experiences with taxies in Hammamet, I decided I wanted to try again the taxi drivers in Tunis. I walked over to a taxi. "Airport!" I said. He nodded. I put my bag in the trunk. "Cince dinars, ok?" "what?" He showed me 15 ($5) with his fingers. "For bag!" He smiled. Oh crap! Don't they ever give up? I shook my head and sighed. Deeply. I pulled my backpack out of his trunk. He started negotiating the price. I was done negotiating. I decided to walk to the Tunis Marina to take the bus. I checked the map. Tunis marina was just a short walk. When I arrived, I started looking for the bus station. I seem to remember that it was supposed to be around the Marina. I checked the map, and I didnt find it. I stood there for a minute. Contemplating my options. Then I checked the map. 7 km to the airport. Oh, well. Not the first time. So I started walking.
The temperature was nice. And with my average walking speed, I found I would be at the airport just around sundown. Perfect. I found a lesser used road to walk beside. Closer to the water than the new highway. And after a while, I noticed a lot of young people with cars and motorcycles burning rubber. And particularly on a longer straight stretch of the road. Cars were lined up on each side. And young guys on motorcycles where burning back and forth. Riding on their back wheels, or drifting, or doing tricks. I got the "fast and furious" vibe from the whole scene. Guys with beamers drifting around the roundabouts. A lot of young guys and girls watching and cheering. I shot a couple of short videos of guys riding on their back wheels.
As I was closing in on the airport, my shoulders were starting to ache. No wonder. I had walked from the train station to the airport. 9 km.
It was a relief to drop my bags off by the table of a small diner. I needed some chow and some water. It was good to sit down. And the water worked its wonder. Now I only had to wait for a few hours till the checkin-counter opened. My plane leaves at 2.15 am. It will be a long night.
In retrospect, this has been a great trip. Not only because it was my first in a couple of years, but also because Tunisia was a great destination. With diverse places, wonderful food, friendly people (save for taxidrivers in Tunis...) and lots to see and experience. Both for the "off-the-beaten-track"-guy like me, and for those who prefer an all-inclusive hotel with a pool and the pizza place nearby. Tunisia has had its share of problems. And some still exists. But I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a visit. I haven't checked if there are package tours to places like Sousse and Hammamet, but I wouldn't be surprised.
This is me, logging off for the last time in Tunisia. At the table of the diner. Still waiting for the checkin for my flight to open. Till next time!

Ragnar
Going home

Waves in the bath

My last day in Sousse, and I would head up to my last stop of the trip. Hammamet. Hammamet literally means "bath", and gives away its lure to the world. It was the first tourist spot in Tunisia. And it still is one of the most important. According to Wikipedia, the population grows from just under 100 000 to over 400 000 during the tourist season.

I got up early. Couldn't sleep longer. I guess my body and mind is ready to go back to the grind. This morning, I was a bit weary about one of the glass elevators. I love these elevators, but yesterday, one of them felt a bit icky. After it closed the doors, it moved about 10 cm, then topped abruptly, and shook. Then a few seconds later, it moved normally. I had noticed that its floor was about 10 cm above the threshold. So I guess that was the reason. After breakfast, I spent some time in my room just watching a movie. I wouldn't be able to check in to my hotel in Hammamet until 2 in the afternoon anyways. I opted to walk to the louage station this time too. The weather was fine. Not too hot, not too cold. After the movie had finished, I took one final look at the ocean before heading out of my room. When I came to the elevator, One lady stood there. "No working", she said and pointed to the elevator that had been icky yesterday. Its floor was now 25 cm above the normal level. And since the system registered that it was there, it refused to get the other one up. I tried pressing the buttons in the elevator. Hoping it would leave. But nothing happened. It wa stuck. In the end, I took the fire escape down. 

At the reception, I tried to explain that the elevator was stuck on the 5th floor. The receptionist didn't understand. He called upon the manager. He came, and I told him "the elevator is stuck on the fifth floor". He looked puzzled. "What do you mean? You have room on fifth floor! Here is the key! What is the problem?" I pointed to the elevator shaft. "Elevator! Stuck! Fifth floor!" His eyes flared. "AH!" and he started arguing with the guys in the reception. Lots of handwaving and arguing. I just said "bye!" and left the circus. This clown was going.

It was a nice walk. An since I got a bit warm after a while, my nose did of course dive into one of the freezers on the sidewalk. The ones with icecream in them... I found and interesting one. "Cheese cake!". Yummy. Two of my favorites in one. Ice cream and chees cake! I let my teeth sink in. It did indeed taste like cheese cake! Smiling like a baboon with a banana, I walked on, with my cheescake on a steek.

A surprisingly short time later, I arrived at the louage station. I hopped into the public toilet. After finishing my business, i arrived at the only sink, planning to wash my hands. A guy was already there. Washing his hands, his face, and then proceeded with washing his feet. In the sink. I pulled out my hand sanitizer. Maybe another time...

I found that the ginormous louage station was well organized. And there were lines with signs above them telling where they were going. Unfortunately, I found none for Hammamet. Or any place beyond Hammamet. After searching for a while, I decided to try the ticket booth for Tunis. I was lucky. The guy behind the opening nodded. 7.5 dinars. 

Tickerteer : "But you not go to Hammamet. You go to <insert something imcomprehensible here>!"

Me : "Say what"

Ticketeer : (smiling) "<Insert something incomprehensible starting with 'b'>"

Me : "Repeating something that sounded like "<Insert something incomprehensible starting with 'b'>"

Ticketeer : Smiling and nodding. "There is your car!" he pointed to the first in line

It took me about 1.3 seconds to completely forget what he said. But I knew that there would be a station close to Hammamet. Our louge left shortly after. The driver zoomed out on the highway. The first I have seen here with a toll booth... And drove like he had stolen the car. I kept an eye on the map as we zoomed north. After half an hour, he stopped at a crossroad not far west from the city. He pointed east. "Hammamet! Taxi!". Ok. I and a few others got out and I opted for a taxi. 8 more kilometers with a backpack was a bit more than I wanted. But unlike the taxidrivers in Tunis, this one did nothing to scam me. He used the meter without any extras. And it was a pleasant experience. I tipped him a few dinars. I don't mind the price. Its the ripoffs and outright scams I hate.

The hotel was nice. And it seems to me like they are desperate for customers. I guess two years of pandemic shutdown has taken its toll. A lady sat down with me and told me everything they had to offer, and if I needed anything or had any questions, just ask. She gave me two bracelets. One would show that I was a resident, and the other that I should have breakfast. I felt like an antendee to a rock festival. 

I was given a room on the upper floor

Not sure how to interpret this message in the elevator...

And the ocean view! Yes! This is the way to end my trip here in Tunisia. I sat out on the balcony for a long time, just watching and listening to the waves crashing on the beach. I love that sound. It is so soothing. Probably because I grew up by the sea. I was used to hearing that sound when I was young. Familiarity is soothing, I guess. 

I had a long walk too. Most was closed in town, save for the usual hole-in-the-wall shops selling siggys, water and snacks. And they even had a local "hey I work at your hotel!". He smiled at me, and I smiled back. This probably triggered him into his routine. "Hey, I work at your hotel! I made you omelette this morning, remember?" "Really? At which hotel?" He said the name of another hotel in the group I stay at. He picked the wrong one. "I don't stay there!" I said. He promptly turned and split.

This evening, I wanted to find some local chow. But everywhere I went, all restaurants were closed. Only coffe-shops packed with chainsmoking coffe-drinkers were open. In the end, the only restaurant I found, was a pizza-place run by an italian guy. So at least the pizza was authentic. It was delicious. Even though I would have preferred something local. 

Full of food I headed back to the hotel. Stopped by a shop to buy some water for the evening. Back at the hotel, I went out to the balcony, and looked up at the stars. Leo hanging straight up. I snapped a picture with my phone. Later this year, I am heading down south to Namibia for some real star-gazing. Looking forward to that. 

 

After some time on the balcony enjoying the sound of the waves. I was ready to hit the sack. It had been a good day. Tomorrow, I will go to Tunis. My flight home leaves in the night. It has been a great trip, but it is ok to go home now. I have seen what I wanted. I have been where I wanted. Save for Thala. And even though I have just touched the surface, I feel I have at least glimpsed some of what this country has to offer. 

Ragnar

Ready for my next adventure

 

A walk on the beach

 I was originally planning to take a taxi to Monastir today to see the socalled ribat. But decided to just have a walk on the beach instead. And I am glad I did. As will be clear later. I could see Monastir across the bay from my hotel.

At the end of the beach, there was a small pier, where an old man had put up his fishing rods. The wind was strong and thus the beaches were mostly empty.

It was quite windy today

Looks like some hotels didn't survive the pandemic

It was a long walk, and I was sweaty and ready for some icecream. So I found a small hole-in-the-wall. Delicious! After being refreshed, I walked through the streets packed with tourists and souvenir-sellers. I decided to buy a souvenir. 

I have stopped buying stuff everywhere. I have two large boxes of souvenirs stored away. I have no place to put them or display they. So they are just laying there. So in the past few years, I have resortet to buy fridge magnets. A cheesy souvenir I know. But easier to place. Although the fridge is also getting full...

I walked out of the shop, happy with my purchase. And walked passed several "I work at your hotel" guys. And other stuff. But then something intersting cought my eye. I realized it looked like the ribat in Monastir. And indeed it was. I paid for a ticket and walked around for a while. Especially delightful was the fact that I could climb up the stairs to the top of the tower. The stairs were as narrow and steep as the ones on the statue of liberty. And at some points, it was pitch dark, so I needed to feel my way up the steps. The view from up there was magnificent. I could almost imagine how it would be to stand up there and watching attackers coming. 

After coming back to the hotel, I found out that the ribat here in Sousse may not be the biggest, but it was actually the oldest. So no point in going to Monastir to see such a structure. Here are some images I took of it.

My guide met me at the entrance

Worn down by a lot of steps

The narrow stairs up the tower

Finally at the top

Spectacular view

 

Tonight I decided also to get some street food. There are plenty of burger-/pizza- and pasta-places. But I was more in for some kebabs or something similar. I found a back street a bit away from the typical touristy places. A small hole in the wall shop. The owner lit up when I came into his shop. He let me taste the meat and the fries. "Good eh?". It was indeed. I sat down on one of the tables and munched away on the lovely chawarma. 

Yesterday, there was a lot of noise from downstairs in the hotel. I thought it was drunk guests. But when I came back to the hotel, I realized it was actually a childrens club. Singing and dancing... Oh well. Last night at the hotel. I stepped outside on the baclony and enjoyed the cool evening. Tomorrow, I will head out the last stop on my journey; Hammamet. One night there before heading home.

Ragnar

Beachwalker