I'm leaving, on a JETT bus

I have to admit, the main reason I went to Jordan, was Petra. I have been wanting to go there for most of my life. And I finally had the chance. I had booked the bus tickets, and since I had a Jordan Pass, I had two days to play. I had also booked a cheap hotel in the nearby town of Wadi Musa.

I got up early, 5 am to be excact. Too early. And I left before breakfast. I was going on the 6.30 bus from Abdala busstation. Since I had already walked the route the day before, I knew it even when halfway sleepwalking.

There were a few foreigneres there from all over the world. All with the same destination as me. I was travelling light compared to several of them. I just had my backback. I was happy I didn't have to carry any bags or suitcases. 

 

As expected, we made a toilet and stretch your legs stop midway. The place was an obvious tourist trap. With prices even a Norwegian found a bit off. I just had to smile. The bus company probbaly got some kickback from the place for dumping tourists on their laps.

 

After a 4 hour drive, we arrived at the entrance to Petra. I was finally there. The place I had dreamt of so long. I should probably continue, but I have decided to write another entry for images and experiences and thoughts about the site itself. So maybe tomorrow, I will publish that one. Need to sort thoughts and not the least, images... But here are some of the things I learned during my stay.

 

It always amazes me how much people do for a quick buck. And how much one has to be alert all the time to avoid being scammed or ripped off. And like most places I have been, Petra was much the same. Luckily, I have heard most of it before. All over the world. The first was some guys who offered horseback riding. "It is free! Included in your ticket!". Of course it is. Actually, it is free. But the kind of free where they expect a big tip at the end. Making the "free ride" quite costly. It cost nothing to get on the horse, nothing to ride it, but there is definitely a "fee" for getting off. 

There are different trails through the area, some are easy, some are hard. And I noticed that the trail up to the monestary at the other side of the area, was marked both as "hard" and "requires guide". The first one was a challenge, the second I didn't quite understand. But when I arrived the the start of the trail to the monestary, I found that the "required" thing wasn't real. And besides, if you come at a time where there are nobody else there, you have two trails you can follow anyways. A trail of fresh donkey droppings, and a trail of souvenir sellers. Both of which where of equal numbers. There were a number of donkey herders at the bottom of the trail who tried to convince the tourists that it would take an hour to walk the trail, and that it involved climbing. So we'd better take up their offer for a donkey-ride up the trail. Well, I'm a 50-something fat guy in bad shape and an affinity for Coke and snacks. Including three breath stops, two photoshoots and constant hopping between donkey droppings, it took me 30 minutes to the monestary. So if it takes you 1 hour, you are either 90 years old with arthritis, or in such bad shape you have a near-death-experience every time you get up from the couch. And, there is no climbing. Stairs all the way. I understand. They want to make money. So if you take the donkey, you do it because you want to experience it. I have to say though, the ambulance passed my twice the first day, and three times the second day. All going from the trail up the hill. Soooo. If you are closer to the near-death experience persona, take the donkey. Or, better yet. Find some photos on the internet.

After spending close to 5 hours withing the Petra area, I was ready to find my hotel. Of course, maps are flat. But from what I could see, my hotel would be up the hill. And what a hill. After walking for 5 hours, my fett were already a bit sore, but I wanted to walk the short distance. According to Googe Maps, it was a mere 1.5 km from the visitor centre. No biggie. Well. It was indeed a biggie. And with some "shortcuts" of my own making, the hill got steeper and steeper with every step. I was gasping for air when I finally arrived at the hotel. Which proved to be at the top of the town. The receptionist saw me. "Tired, sir?". "Yess!" I gasped as I pulled out my passport. He found my reservation and gave me the instructions. No pets, no smoking, doors are closed at midnight. And breakfast is served from 6 am.

Arrow where my hotel is. All the way at the top...

My Estes rocket kit came with a launch box...

And, for some reason, the eiffel tower. Sort of...

I dumped my backback on the bed and walked out into the hallway. It led to a balcony. The view was spectacular. At least I got something back for my efforts. I stood there and took some pictures of the sunset. 

 

Then I left to get some food. I had passed some restaurants on my way up, but decided against walking down again. Had enough uphill battles for today So I went to a snack bar right beside. It had newly opened. So new in fact they didn't even have a menu printed. I got myself a plate of delicious shawarma and fries. With some delicious sauces. After this, I went back to my room, crashed on the bed and fell asleep.

 

I had set the alarm on my phone to 6 am. Wanted to get an early start. The breakfast room was in the 3rd floor. It was totally not what I expected. It looked like something you'd expect in arabian nights or something. And it also had a great view down to the city centre. I loved it. 

Since the efforts of last night meant the road would be downhill to the visitor center, I decided to walk. And I was going to follow Google Maps to the letter today. Which would be interesting. I watched my circle on the map, and then I passed the "crossroad" where I was supposed to take a right. But all I could see, was a parked car. I walked up and down a few times before I found that it HAD to be here. So I walked past the car and found a barely visible footpath. Downhill. That looked more like a dump than a footpath. But down the hill it did meet up with a gravel road. So the map was right. -ish.

The "road" I walked. Not even a footpath... Arrow shows the narrowest part

 

In far shorter time and far less sweaty, I arrived for my second day at Petra. Again, I will describe this more in my next posting. But it was definitely just as interesting and mindblowing the second day.

After leaving the area some 6 hours later. I was full of impressions. My camera and phone was full of images. And my stomach was empty. I knew that all such places have terrible food at blownup prices. But since my bus was leaving not too long after, I didn't want to go far for some crud. So I opted for a local snack-shack. I ordered my usual schawarma. And you could tell from the guys eyes, he was just making up the prices as I ordered. I didn't care. And as expected, it was the el-cheapo version of a shawarma. But it filled my empty stomach. After this, I went and bought something I should have on the first day. A head scarf. One side of my neck was burnt. Despite using sunblock 30. And the head scarf would have alleviated that. But at least I have one now. A bit late. But it was nice to wear around my neck to protect the burnt skin from the sun. 

As I was waiting in a shaded area, I watched one of the stray dogs stand in the middle of the plaza and dump the biggest pile of turd I have ever seen a dog this size make. And then wandered off yawning. A guy then came and scooped it all up and washed the spot. Dunno if this was a statement from the dog about how he felt about us...
 

Waiting area in the shade. Watching a guy clean dog shit from all over the plaza

My bus arrived and I hopped onboard. 4 hours drive later, with the usual stop at the tourist trap, we arrived back at the bus station. I walked past a small shop that was just opening and went inside to grab some snacks for the evening. A guy and what appeared to be his young son was inside. The dad was placing stuff out on the street, and the kid was chewing on some pringles. I picked up some snacks and drinks and went to the counter. The kid went behind the counter, and his dad arrived. The son insisted on using the beeper gun. But it was obvious he hadn't quite gotten the hang of it. So his dad had to find and hold the bar code correctly. The kid smiled ever time the machine beeped. Then he asked his dad something, and his dad pointed at the sum on the register. The kid looked at me and pointed at the sum on the register. I smiled. 1.25. I put down a 10 on the counter. He asked his dad something. His dad pressed a button that opened the register. And there was some chatting while his dad obviously tought him some math. He gave me the change and I smiled and said "Shukran!". The boy had a proud look on his face. I left the shop smiling.

Back at the hotel, I watched a crappy action movie while starting to write this blog entry. Today. I am taking the day off. Maybe I'll take a quick trip down to the city centre to get some food. But I have no other plans than to write the entry about Petra. I have three days left. Need to find something to do the last few days.

Hill Billy

 I had plans to see two things today. The traditional market, and the Jordan museum. After breakfast, I found a shop and bought a couple of bottles of water. I had learned from yesterday. And today, I tried finding some backalleys and streets with less traffic. A lot more intersting and less taxing on my breath. It is obvious  why the air in Oslo feels better now. Less gas-guzzling cars. More electric and hybrids. 

 

I have yet to accept that Amman is a hilly place. So too with the market. The road may be flat on the map, but it was far from it in real life. As I lookup at the map, and concidered the road, I realized it was going to be a looooong climb. But I love these types of markets. 

I had to stop a couple of times to catch my breath. When I was nearing the top, and cardiac arrest, I found as sign for a hospital. So if I were to drop, at least the hospital would be close.

 

I finally arrived at the top, and walked into the market. Bustling with people. And small shops. Selling everything from bananas to stereos. A huge area with streets and crossroads. And always in these markets, my favorite; the spice shops. The smell is just...out of this world.

Real Guccy pants

After deceding from the hill, I sat down in the shade of a waiting area at a busstop. Checking the map to see where the museum was. To my surprise, it was supposed to be right in front of me. I looked up. Indeed!

I searched for the entrance, but every entrance was closed. In the end I found a guard, who told me "Emmm. Closed. Clean museum!" he said and "washed his hands". So no museum for me today. So I just walked back to the hotel. Enjoying the many murials and small streets on the way.

Lots of stairs in Amman...

Children are the same everywhere

A bit shadi, but I bought some ice cream from him anyways

After a few hours rest at my hotel, I walked back to the place I got my chicken sammy yesterday. I got there earlier today, so there were almos no customers. So I even got a seat at a table to rest and eat my sammy. Just as delish as yesterday. With the added benefit of sesting my legs.

Table with a view

Tomorrow, I am leaving town for one night. So I thought I would check out the bus station I will be leaving from in the morning. So I walked over there from my hotel, so I know the way tomorrow morning. The bus leaves at 6.30 in the morning, so I need to be up at 5. But at least now I know where to go to get to the station in time.

On the way there, I shot this from a bridge. Nice view of Amman at night. See u l8r Amman!

A man in Amman

 I was a bit sceptical about the short time between the flights in Copenhagen. 1 hour 10 minutes is far less than I am comfortable with. But I was hoping for no delay. Or at least little delay from Oslo. Since these where two companies, I knew that they would not be able to do anything if the flight from Oslo was too late. And then my worst fears came to fruition. Our flight out of Oslo was no less than 45 minutes delayed. When we landed, I checked the flight to Amman. "Closed" the info said. "Noooooo!" I was contemplating what a vacation in Copenhagen would be like. A couple that was going on the same flight said. "Lets run!" And we did. Elbowed our way through the crowds and ran through passport check. When I saw the sign for gate C35, my body was nearing cardiac arrest. I felt nauseous. Gasping for air, I slammed my passport on the counter. The lady behind the desk smiled and said "There is a line!" I turned to see a man standing there. "Oh, sorry!" 

I was trying to regain my breath when I realized they had gotten information about a bunch of people coming due to late incoming flight. And they were trying to accomodate everybody. Finally it was my turn. The lady behind the desk discussed a lot with her colleagues. Then she turned to her supervisor. "Business?" she said among other arabic words I didn't understand. Her super nodded. A few moments later, She had my boarding card. She smiled "since you came late, I have upgraded you to business class!". I smiled. "Well, in that case, I will be late next time too!" She laughed. "Have a nice trip sir!"

I settled in my seat. 2A. Business class. Wide seats with all kinds of amenities. But it took the best part of half an hour before my cough stopped. I had overstrained my body running. But finally, it gave and I could enjoy a 3 course meal and a relaxing atmosphere. Watching the clouds drift by underneath us. And after a few short hours, the lights of Amman appeared. 

I had found that there was something called a Jordan Pass. This has to be the greatest deal of all times. With this, you dont have to pay visa fee, and you get entry to Petra for two days and access to 40+ sites. All for the price of the Petra tickets alone. So I was given a "free visa" and after passport control, and for once in my life, not being picked for thorough search in customs. I was in Jordan!

I had also read up on the taxi situation. Too many countries have scam taxis. I have bee a victim of several. But not in Jordan. You go up to a counter, tell them where you are going, and they set the price. Then you go to the taxi stand, and you already have the price. They cannot make up another price. Whats on the ote is your price. Half an hour later, we arrived at my hotel. It was getting late, so I was tired. Wa slooking forward to kicking my shoes off. My surprise was huge when I saw the room. More like a suite with its own livingroom. Loved it. I slept like a baby the whole night.

Today, I planned to go to the see the roman theatre and the citadel. I opted to walk. Not to save money, but rather because in my experience, I get to see more of normal life. People going about their business. Kids playing. And I get to see parts of the city I usually would just zoom by in a taxi. And of course, its good exercise...

But first, a cold shower got me started. No warm water. Obviously, I was to late. It was a chilling experience. Since it is now ramadan, no breakfast restaurant. But they came to my room with a plate full of delicious cheese, meat and bread. And a glass of juice. As a tourist, I am allowed to eat and drink. But I tend to try not to eat in front of everybody else. So eating in my room suites me fine. Just like in Iran, I ate at the hotel. Trying not to lead the fasting astray.

 

After a filling meal, I was ready to stride into the street sof Amman. I had looked at a route down to the roman theatre. It would lead me down to the city centre. The citadel was close by so I would be able to do a double whammy. Some images from the walk down.

Much street art here and there

No thanks

The morning was a bit nippy, but that suited me fine. I had come direct from winter at home. But by the time I reached the roman theatre. I was sweating. I wanted to have a drink of water, so I went to a public bathroom and snuck a long drink. It was refreshing. Then I entered the theatre. It was huge! According to the information board, it was designed to hold up to 6000 people. Row after row up till a dizzying height. It was dividied into three sections. The lower was for senators and the elite. The mid for the "common citizens" and the upper for slaves, foreigners and other "trash". But it was interesting that they were allowed in at all. 

 

I climbed to the top. Gasping for air as I climbed. I am not in a good shape! And it gives why the senators and the elite had the lower seats. They were usually not the slimmest people, so they would probably have died if they tried to climb to the top.

I loved sitting there, catching my breath, and contemplating what it must have been like back in the days. Seeing plays. Maybe concerts? Escaping daily life for a short period. Who knows?

 

A smaller theatre nearby. Now used for concerts

The theatre seen from the citadel

 

After spending some time here, my next target was visible from the top. The citadel. One could see the walls surrounding it on top of a hill. I walked over, and of course, there were a ton of steep steps to get to it. I think I am getting into shape on this trip. I have to admit it was a bit disappointing. Apart from the walls, there wasnt much left. Save from a few columns and a sistern for water. But it was interesting all the same to try to imaging living here. Overlooking the surrounding areas. And it was obvious why this was a brilliant location for a fortified city. Steep hill on all sides made it almost impossible to attack for a army of soldiers.

Stairs to the citadel

And some more....

....and some more...

Finally at the top....

 

 

Clay sarcofagus found during a dig

Ok?.....

 

At this point, I had walked for hours. I was tired and thirsty. So I decided to call it a day and walk back to my hotel. I tried a new route back just to see something different. The new route wasnt so busy. And with less traffic. So I liked it better. The first one was selected for me by Google maps... So an advice: Do not follow the recommended route just because it is recommended. Try some alternatives. You have the map anyways. So you can find your way back of you get lost.

Later in the evening, when the sun was setting, I was ready for some local street food. Of course, there are a lot fo restaurants in the city center. But I wanted some street food. After a lot fo searching, I found a hole-in-the-wall place. Packed with customers. They served chicken kebabs and sandwitches. I bought a sandwich. After waiting a god 10 minutes and watching the people who had fasted the whole day eating like they hadn't eaten all day...well...technically they hadn't....my sammy was ready. I walked off and stood by the sidewalk and enjoyed it. Delish juicy and perfectly seasoned. A perfect ending to my first day in Jordan.