A man in Amman

 I was a bit sceptical about the short time between the flights in Copenhagen. 1 hour 10 minutes is far less than I am comfortable with. But I was hoping for no delay. Or at least little delay from Oslo. Since these where two companies, I knew that they would not be able to do anything if the flight from Oslo was too late. And then my worst fears came to fruition. Our flight out of Oslo was no less than 45 minutes delayed. When we landed, I checked the flight to Amman. "Closed" the info said. "Noooooo!" I was contemplating what a vacation in Copenhagen would be like. A couple that was going on the same flight said. "Lets run!" And we did. Elbowed our way through the crowds and ran through passport check. When I saw the sign for gate C35, my body was nearing cardiac arrest. I felt nauseous. Gasping for air, I slammed my passport on the counter. The lady behind the desk smiled and said "There is a line!" I turned to see a man standing there. "Oh, sorry!" 

I was trying to regain my breath when I realized they had gotten information about a bunch of people coming due to late incoming flight. And they were trying to accomodate everybody. Finally it was my turn. The lady behind the desk discussed a lot with her colleagues. Then she turned to her supervisor. "Business?" she said among other arabic words I didn't understand. Her super nodded. A few moments later, She had my boarding card. She smiled "since you came late, I have upgraded you to business class!". I smiled. "Well, in that case, I will be late next time too!" She laughed. "Have a nice trip sir!"

I settled in my seat. 2A. Business class. Wide seats with all kinds of amenities. But it took the best part of half an hour before my cough stopped. I had overstrained my body running. But finally, it gave and I could enjoy a 3 course meal and a relaxing atmosphere. Watching the clouds drift by underneath us. And after a few short hours, the lights of Amman appeared. 

I had found that there was something called a Jordan Pass. This has to be the greatest deal of all times. With this, you dont have to pay visa fee, and you get entry to Petra for two days and access to 40+ sites. All for the price of the Petra tickets alone. So I was given a "free visa" and after passport control, and for once in my life, not being picked for thorough search in customs. I was in Jordan!

I had also read up on the taxi situation. Too many countries have scam taxis. I have bee a victim of several. But not in Jordan. You go up to a counter, tell them where you are going, and they set the price. Then you go to the taxi stand, and you already have the price. They cannot make up another price. Whats on the ote is your price. Half an hour later, we arrived at my hotel. It was getting late, so I was tired. Wa slooking forward to kicking my shoes off. My surprise was huge when I saw the room. More like a suite with its own livingroom. Loved it. I slept like a baby the whole night.

Today, I planned to go to the see the roman theatre and the citadel. I opted to walk. Not to save money, but rather because in my experience, I get to see more of normal life. People going about their business. Kids playing. And I get to see parts of the city I usually would just zoom by in a taxi. And of course, its good exercise...

But first, a cold shower got me started. No warm water. Obviously, I was to late. It was a chilling experience. Since it is now ramadan, no breakfast restaurant. But they came to my room with a plate full of delicious cheese, meat and bread. And a glass of juice. As a tourist, I am allowed to eat and drink. But I tend to try not to eat in front of everybody else. So eating in my room suites me fine. Just like in Iran, I ate at the hotel. Trying not to lead the fasting astray.

 

After a filling meal, I was ready to stride into the street sof Amman. I had looked at a route down to the roman theatre. It would lead me down to the city centre. The citadel was close by so I would be able to do a double whammy. Some images from the walk down.

Much street art here and there

No thanks

The morning was a bit nippy, but that suited me fine. I had come direct from winter at home. But by the time I reached the roman theatre. I was sweating. I wanted to have a drink of water, so I went to a public bathroom and snuck a long drink. It was refreshing. Then I entered the theatre. It was huge! According to the information board, it was designed to hold up to 6000 people. Row after row up till a dizzying height. It was dividied into three sections. The lower was for senators and the elite. The mid for the "common citizens" and the upper for slaves, foreigners and other "trash". But it was interesting that they were allowed in at all. 

 

I climbed to the top. Gasping for air as I climbed. I am not in a good shape! And it gives why the senators and the elite had the lower seats. They were usually not the slimmest people, so they would probably have died if they tried to climb to the top.

I loved sitting there, catching my breath, and contemplating what it must have been like back in the days. Seeing plays. Maybe concerts? Escaping daily life for a short period. Who knows?

 

A smaller theatre nearby. Now used for concerts

The theatre seen from the citadel

 

After spending some time here, my next target was visible from the top. The citadel. One could see the walls surrounding it on top of a hill. I walked over, and of course, there were a ton of steep steps to get to it. I think I am getting into shape on this trip. I have to admit it was a bit disappointing. Apart from the walls, there wasnt much left. Save from a few columns and a sistern for water. But it was interesting all the same to try to imaging living here. Overlooking the surrounding areas. And it was obvious why this was a brilliant location for a fortified city. Steep hill on all sides made it almost impossible to attack for a army of soldiers.

Stairs to the citadel

And some more....

....and some more...

Finally at the top....

 

 

Clay sarcofagus found during a dig

Ok?.....

 

At this point, I had walked for hours. I was tired and thirsty. So I decided to call it a day and walk back to my hotel. I tried a new route back just to see something different. The new route wasnt so busy. And with less traffic. So I liked it better. The first one was selected for me by Google maps... So an advice: Do not follow the recommended route just because it is recommended. Try some alternatives. You have the map anyways. So you can find your way back of you get lost.

Later in the evening, when the sun was setting, I was ready for some local street food. Of course, there are a lot fo restaurants in the city center. But I wanted some street food. After a lot fo searching, I found a hole-in-the-wall place. Packed with customers. They served chicken kebabs and sandwitches. I bought a sandwich. After waiting a god 10 minutes and watching the people who had fasted the whole day eating like they hadn't eaten all day...well...technically they hadn't....my sammy was ready. I walked off and stood by the sidewalk and enjoyed it. Delish juicy and perfectly seasoned. A perfect ending to my first day in Jordan.

 

Contemplating the stars above

"Do not complain under the stars of the lack of bright spots in your life"

                                                                                    - Henrik Wergeland

When I was 4 years old, I was allowed to stay out after dark. And one of those evenings, the skies were clear. And I could see the stars. While the other kids on my street were playing, I was transfixed by the sight above my head. I ran inside to ask my mom. What were those lights? She told me they were suns. Far away. My young mind was blown for the first time. Even at the age of 4, I understood that they needed to be very far away. 

Ever since that evening, the universe has continued to fascinate and thrill me. And for the past few years, I have also realized that it has been a source of therapy through my life. On multiple occasions, when I have been on a highpoint in my life, standing under a starry sky, has been a source of joy. And during the lowest points in my life, when the emotional pain has seemed unbearable, I have been standing under the stars. Dreaming away to another place. Another life. 

I once stood by my fathers grave. And I was suddenly aware of a familiar sound. The sound of the waterfalls of the rivers running down the steep sides of the mountain nearby. I grew up with those sounds. When the snow melted or when the rainstorms hit, their waters crashed down. My father brought his small family to this town when I was a small child. 30 years later, I carried him to his final resting place. In this town he met successes and failures. He worked hard and supported his family. Built a home with his own hands. 30 years after he arrived, his life was over. The sound of the rivers reminded me of the short time we spend on this earth. My father's life may have been full. But to the rivers, it was a mere blink of an eye.

Every time I have been to Namibia, just watching the stars with a naked eye has been soothing to me. Their brilliant shine is the same now as the first time I glimpsed them almost 50 years ago. Compared to my life, they are eternal. They look the same now as they did when Jesus walked on Earth 2000 years ago. Eternity imprinted on the dark skies above.

This time around, for a personal reason I will not reveal, the starry skies above held a special significance. And one of the nights, when everybody else had gone to bed, I stood there for a long time. Thinking. With mixed feelings. Both in pain and in gratitude. The stars above has for the past few years gotten a new meaning in my life. And their shine has been forever changed to my eyes.

And that new meaning will be with me all my days.

 

Blowing in the wind

Answers are not blowing in the wind, but our telescopes definitely are.

For the past few days, the wind has been relentless. And for a day or two, visual observing has been next to impossible. Luckily, imaging has fared better. Mostly because our telescopes are smaller, and therefore doesn't get caught that much by the winds. 

 

During the nights, the winds have rattled the windows and door of the rooms. Luckily, I have slept well despite this. I guess I am used to sleeping during a storm. Having grown up at the weatherbeaten northwest of Norway, I am not unfamiliar to strong winds. But I had hoped we would have been spared of it here in Namibia. Time is precious for us. We had 12 nights here. And this is the first time I have seen this much "weather" here. This is my fifth time, and I had previously (witha total of 50 nights) only had ONE night lost due to weather. 

But the images that I have taken seems to not have suffered too much. I have been able to take photos of some truly wonderful objects. My favorites under the southern skies. And I hope I will be able to process them carefully enough in the coming weeks and months to truly bring out the beauty of them. 

Omega Centauri, the amazing globular cluster. A giant ball of stars shining so brilliantly it actually burns into your retina. 

Eta Carina nebula. A vast swath of hydrogen gas glowing deep red in the skies. With so much details it is a feast to the eyes and mind.

Trifid nebula. A red and blue gas nebula resembling a flower. 

The amazing Antares area where yellow, red, blue and brown/dark gas and dust areas are visible within a small area around the giant star Antares.

I only hope I have been able to capture at least some of their splendor and beauty. Time will show.

The days here in Namibia are lazy. We spend much of the evening and night looking at objects in the skies, so during the days, we often sleep a little. Eat too much. And plan for the next night. 

With a view like this for breakfast...

...and this at dinner, no wonder we eat too much...

New Moon last night

 

But we also do some eploring of the surroundings. A group of us went on a 3 hour trip around the farm, seeing animals and great sites. I was not one of them. Maybe next time. But I did join the trip to a nearby observatory called HESS. High Energy Stereoscopic System. 5 giant telescopes working in union to observe high energy radiation from deep space. I have been there multiple times, but I love the site, and looking at the giant telescopes.

Our ride for the day

Dusty roads

The five telescopes, in their parking position

Currently, this is the largest optical telescope in the world

One of the smaller telescopes, with its camera protected in a shed

Great for selfies...

The big one!

The camera holder. The camera weighs several tons...

Another selfie with one of the scientists looking on...

Shadows on the red sand

On our way back, a herd of springbock ran across a field

One stopped to look at us

 

Around the astrofarm, there is ample opportunity for walks. 

 

And of course, the local cats don't mind some petting... 

At the time of writing, we have two more nights here. So I will try to make the best of it and catch as many photons as possible before I have to pack my bags and telescope for the long journey home. The Namibian adventure is coming to an end. Way too soon. As always.

Ready for a new night under the stars

Southern beauty

The engines of the 330 roared into life. Half a minute later, we were in the air. The bright lights of Frankfurt became fainter and fainter as we ascended into the skies. We were not ony leaving Europe behind, but also lightpollution. And the glow of Frankfurt was a perfect reminder of this. 

 

10 hour later, just after 8 in the morning, we touched down on the airport in Windhoek, Namibia. My fifth time in this astronomy heaven. Where the skies are more or less clear every night for months. 

 

After some initial wait, our drivers finally arrived to take us for a 3 hours drive into the desert. It was clear that Namibia had seen much needed rains. The last time, most of the vegetation was dry and dead. Now it was green everywhere. 

 

The drive was nice. With long, dusty roads. Some local wildlife showing up here and there to greet us. Baboons and worthogs. Finally, we arrived at the astrofarm. High in the mountains. Almost 2km above sea level. Here we will be staying for two weeks. Exploring the skies. Taking photos. And enjoying the area and the views. 

One of the locals greeting us

This time around, when night fell, it was obvious that there was something different in the skies. The sundown was more colourful and lasted longer than before. Obviously, dust from the Tonga eruption filled the atmosphere. Invisible in places that I am used to. But here, with its pristine air and dark skies, it became obvious. The skies were brighter than before. But even with this added "bonus", it was amazing to see the skies again. Where the Milkyway is so bright that it casts a shadow on the dark ground. 

 

 

I don't need a telescope to enjoy the view. I can stand for hours just looking at the stars. Shining brighter than anywhere else. The dark bands of the Milkyway. Dreaming away into the night sky. Ever since I was a little kid at 4 or 5, I have stared at the stars. In wonder. And awe. And I probably always will.

 

Ragnar

Stargazer