lørdag 31. mars 2018

Into the blue

I glinted. The room was partially lit. The aircon wooshed loudly. I looked at the phone. 6 something in the morning. I didn't go to sleep until midnight. Again. Arriving late yesterday, I spent the evening in my room. Nothing to do at the hotel. At least not that I cared about. I buried my head in the pillow. Hoping to get some more naps before I got up. But in the end, I gave up. A guy showed up at my door yesterday to take my breakfast order. And I had said 8. It was nearly 8. Eat first, shower later. A light tapping on the door. I opened up, and outside was a guy holding a tray with my breakfast. An omelet, afghan bread (delicious), some honey and jam, and a big pot of tea. After spreading it out on the table in my room, he bowed and left. I sat eating for almost an hour. Just enjoying the omlet and bread. Time to try out the rainfall shower in the bathroom. I loooove long showers when I have the time. And I did.
After a long and refreshing shower I decided it was time for me to check security for getting to the blue mosque. The main attraction here in Mazar. I took the elevator down, enjoying the view of the street outside. As usual, nobody at the reception. After some searching, they found a guy. Who didn't speak any english. So he went to get another guy, who spoke enough english to understand that I wanted to go to the blue mosque.
"Is it safe walking to Blue Mosque?"
"You want to go Blue Mosque?"
"Yes."
"No problem! It safe!"
"For me to walk?"
"Yeeeees. I get you car."
"No, I want to walk. Is it safe for me to walk?"
"Yes. Let me talk to manager!"
On the phone with the manager for a few minutes. And suddenly the first guy comes.
"Come with me!"
"Errrr...Ok?"
I followed him to an elevator. Expecting him to take me out the back to lure any bad guys waiting at the front. Down we went. And into the garage.
"Here, car!" He said and opened the door for me. I thought "Whatever" as he got in the back seat. After a few more minutes, a driver showed up. And up we went through several secure points before we entered the street through a thick metal door with an armed guard watching the surroundings. I felt like the president for a while. Didn't know if the car was bulletproof, but it might as well have been...
Since the mosque was just a couple of blocks away, it probably took more time to organize the driving and the driving than if I had walked. But I guess they were trying to protect me. And it was OK to have somebody there with me to teach me the do's and don'ts at the mosque. So I didn't do all the stupid tourist things.
The mosque was simply beautiful. Colors, texture of the marble ground. And the atmosphere was magnificent. My "guide" told me that the mosque was used by people from all over the region. And people would come there and hang out. Kids would play, and they would have football matches there. The area around the mosque had pools, recreational areas, juice and icecream stands and walkpaths. We spent almost 2 hours there. Wandering around. Taking images and taking in the atmosphere of the place. I wasn't too sure how I, as a foreigner would be welcomed. But most people either ignored me, or greeted me with "salaam". "Everyone is welcome here" my guide told me. He was a practicing muslim himself, and often came to the mosque.
Below is a sample of the images I took. They do not do any credit to the beauty of the place, unfortunately. But give an impression. Hopefully. For those of you who will never see it with your own eyes.








Inside this area, people threw money and clothes at new years as gifts and alms.




Marble tiles of the floor.









My guide bought me a delicious orange juice. Freshly made.


Kids chasing doves in the area surrounding the mosque

I was hungry at this point, and also felt the need to treat my guide to a dinner for his help and explanations. And for walking around with me in the heat in a suit... He wasn't supposed to be outside. He was dressed for hotel work. I wanted to try some more kababs and asked for a recommendation. He suggested the best kabab-restaurant in town. Mansoor Restaurant. The place was crawling with SUVs, so it was obvious that it was best in town. We found a table, and sat down. My guide ordered food. And the kababs were even better here.


Afghan bread. Yum!

Different types of kababs

YUMMI!


Around us were several VIPs with their own bodyguards. Complete with AK-47s. Felt a bit weird sitting there watching them. They sat there beside their bosses. With their rifles between their legs. Waiting patiently while their boss ate either alone or with friends or colleagues.
After the meal, I wanted to pay (he even offered to pay this too, but I politely refused), but I felt a little bit nervous I would not have enough money on me. I hand't really planned to eat out with a guide, so I only brough 1000 affs. The bill arrived, and my guide translated. 980 affs. I smiled, and gave the waiter the 1000. He returned with a 20. I waved him off. A little tip for him. I sighed in relief. No embarrasment there.
The rest of the day, I spent at the hotel, writing my blog, chatting with friends and burning the fat. I had planned to try to take a trip outside of Mazar to see some more, but I was afraid to ask, in case they would order my guide to join me for another trip...

Ragnar
Out of the blue

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