Serenading

I had spent the previous night "driving" the route I would take out of Santiago from the car rental company. I had a shower and a quick snack before walking the same route. I noticed all the trigger points where I was supposed to turn or exit. Before calling it a night, I went up to the rooftop veranda of the building and took a few pictures of the city lights below the darkening skies. The cool breeze was fresh. The sounds of the city dampened. The local pubs and bars, not so much. But again, I was still jetlagged and fell asleep easily.

I woke, as expected, early the next day too. But managed to stay in bed until the time was ripe to get up. I had a date with a car renatl company to get a car at 9 am. I wanted to get out as soon as possible as not to arrive in La Serena to late in the afternoon. And without having to speed too much to get there. It was a 470 km drive, so not too bad.
I had planned to walk the route I was planning to drive so I could check all the turns and crossroads along the way to make sure I had remembered them correctly. I got up, and after a quick shower, I ate a quick breakfast of the same bread as before from the corner shop. I wasn't sure they were open so early on a Sunday morning, so I stopped by on my way back the evening before.
I packed my bags and headed out. Left the key at the reception and left. The streets were wet from the rain. Not posessing an umbrella, I was hoping it would stay clear at least until I had reached the car rental office.
The walk was nice. The streets empty. At half past seven, most people were probably sleeping off the party from last night. My wheely suitcase was the nosiest thing. Making a rumble across the sidewalk. I felt like I was waking everyone up. Almost halfway to the rental office, my bladder started complaining. I think I have a pea-sized bladder. I would probably have made it to the rental office, but I hate thinking about it all the time. So I started looking for somewhere to relieve myself. And much to my surprise, I found one of those "festival-toilets", parked by the sidewalk across the street. I walked across. It was open. And way too small for me and my bags. I checked around, and parked my suitcase and entered. Still a tight fit, but I managed. No water. No nothing there. So I guess they had just parked it there... Oh well. I needed to go. So. Checked the area once more. Nobody had seen me. I pulled out my desinfecting gel and rubbed my hands in it. Would do for handwash for now. I started thinking about the odd placement. Maybe they had just parked it here to pick up later? And now it had my... Oh well.
After about an hour of walking, I reached the office. It was closed. I checked my watch. 8.40. I looked inside. Some movement there, so I was hopeful they would open soon. I looked around and saw a gas station across the street. Walked over there and bought some chocolate, crisps and some drink for the drive. As I got back, they had opened the gates, and a guy had just arrived with a car to return. I snuck under the gate and entered the office. A guy who spoke excellent english, much to my relief, greeted me and took my details.
"The car we have for you is a diesel. Do you mind?" I didn't mind. They often feel stronger than their gasoline counterparts. Not that I needed it. After registering, I went out to go over my car with a guy who spoke absolutely no english. He spoke in length about the spare wheel and all the tools in the trunk and how to use it. I nodded and understood nothing. But just hoped I wouldn't need any of it. In the end, he asked "comprende?". I smiled. "Si senor! Gracias!". He was happy, and handed me the key. I was ready to go. Got my gear in the car, got in the front seat and pushed the key. After a few seconds, the engine roared to life. Spent a few moments figuring out the levers and the gear shift. I started inching my way through the narrow paths in the parking lot. All while running the route through my head.
I drove with images in my head for all trigger points. At the same time as trying to keep an eye on the traffic and the lights. A total of 10 trigger points, and 10 minutes or so, I was on "ruta 5 norte". Out of Santiago, en route to La Serena.
The speed was increasing as I headed into the mountains. So was the thickness of the morning fog. I kept the speed I felt comfy with. Every toll point, a small box on the windshield gave off a happy little "bleep". There were a few, to say the least, before I reached open landscape. Or at least I think it was. The fog was so thick I saw maybe 100 meters in any direction. But it felt more countrysidy.
It took maybe an hour before the fog started lifting, and I could enjoy the view around me. And what a view! Beautiful mountain landscape. I took some photos through the windshield. Yeah I know. But without a passenger to do it...

 

 It would eventually be a 5.5 hour drive. With a few stops underway. The trip was magnificent. With a backdrop of the Andes at the beginning, wonderful deep canyons in the middle, and beautiful seascape the rest of the way. I didn't manage to take photos of everything, given the road was a bit turny at times, and I needed both hands of the wheel. Surprisingly, there was very little traffic. Especially given the fact that there would be a solar eclipse two days later.
After an eventless (more or less) 5.5 hours of driving, I had arrived at La Serena. I drove over a hill, and there it was beneath me. I had again memorized the map where I was supposed to drive. This main highway kinda split up in the middle of La Serena. As I closed in on where I was supposed to exit the road, I expected a ramp of some kind. Given this was a main highway. But much to my surprise, it was a roundabaout. And not only that, it had several layers of crossroad intertwined in it. Among other things, a railroad crossing. Not excactly what you would expect in the middle of a highway.
I got off, managed to avoid running any red lights, or running over any pedestrians, and I was in the general area where my apartment would be. I found the street and drove towards the lower numbers. All the way to the end, was the apartment block. I turned and parked on the other side of the street. It was a gated area. I sent a text to my host, and he sent an associate. As I was sitting there in my car, a couple in a car stopped, rolled down the windows, and started yelling at me. I didn't understand one word, but from the way he waved his hands, I got the picture. I nodded, drove around the block and parked in the same spot. But, of course, I started thinking about how it looked. A stranger parked across the street in a car? If you consume enough cop shows, you know what that means...
After an eternety of 20 minutes, with me wondering when the cops would show up, guns drawn, the associate arrived. Again, no English. So I just nodded when she explained. But I understood I should just drive up to the gate, and the gatekeeper (...) would let me in. She pointed to a parking spot. With the number of my apartment painted on the ground. After fiddling for a few minutes trying to park properly, I got out and tried to open the trunk to get my bag out. It wouldn't open. Yay to modern electronics! I tried using the keys. Nothing. Tried to find a lever. Nothing. In the end, I had to lock the car and open it again before it allowed me to access the trunk. I mumbled some words while shaking my head. She smiled.
Up the stairs to the apartment. It was big. With a lot of bedrooms. So I could stay in one bedroom per night... As per usual, the apartment was cold. But it did have a few electric ovens. So I would be good. I hoped. She showed me the ropes. How to turn on the water heater, the gas for the kitchen stove, and plug in the microwave... And before she left, she was trying to explain something about the key. I shook my head, and she picked up her phone and read into it. She got something back in Chinese. She tried again. Siri answered in Spanish. Another try. It was translated into Dutch. I shook my head. She gave up, and tried showing me. My brain lit up. "Ah! Leave la llave on table when salida?" I said in a mix of Spanish and English and hand gestures. She smiled. "Siiii!" Elementary. She left.
After unpacking, I walked outside. Wanted to go to the shopping mall I passed on the way. It was a mile away or so, so just a short walk. It looked like a WalMart (and I later learned that WalMart had bought the chain of stores to which it belongs), but it made all the WalMarts I had seen in the US look like hole-in-the-walls. It was HUGE! I needed some supplies, so I thought it would be the perfect place.

Errrr.... Tsunami???

After picking up some food, snacks and drinks, I headed for the cashier. She bleebed it all and asked me a question. I had now idea what she said, so I just shook my head, assuming it was a "do you have a membership card" question. She finished bleeping and I put my card in. And then stood there waiting for my bag. I cought the attention of a girl standing nearby. She asked me a question. To which I responded with the universal shoulders up. She talked with the cashier, and she demanded money. 110 pesos. I gave her the money, and the girls took the bag and filled my groceries into it. Easy peasy. Stupido turistas...
I had bought an ice-cream, and enjoyed it while walking back to the apartment. The sun was going down, and I was ready to hit the sack. Still a bit jetlagged. I tried turning the two ovens on, but realized that the main fuse in the apartment really could only handle one of them. If I put both on, it blew. So I decided to put one of them in the bedroom to heat it a little before I went to sleep. It was nice to slide under the duvet after a long day driving.
The next day I went to search for any eclipse souvenirs. If there is one thing there is enough of, usually at least, it is souvenir stuff. But much to my surprise. I found none. Nothing in the mall. Nothing on the streets. I walked up and down and everywhere. Nothing. But later in the day, I came a cross a lonely street vendor. Selling caps and t-shirts. Finally. Not the best I had seen, but at least it was something. And inside the mall, they has started selling eclipse glasses in connection with a book signing by some local astronomer and astrphysicist, Jose Meza. I bought a couple of the glasses. I knew I would get some at La Silla the next day, but I like to buy some local souvenir types too.

Not much going on here. Even the street dogs found it boring...

Back at the apartment, I checked social media and found that a friend of mine was in town. I didn't know, so I contacted him, and we arranged to meet at the beach that evening. I also found that Mr Eclipse himself, Fred Espenak, had found some eclipse stamps. Issued by the Chilean postal service. I just had to get me some. Back at the mall, and after asking a bunch of people, I finally found a small room, packed to the rafters with packages and letters. And behind a desk sat a lone woman. I asked in perfect Spanglish : "Stampada, eclipse?". She knew what I wanted. I bought 5. Felt a bit odd to just buy one...
So now I had a few souvenirs. A t-shirt, a cap (although the cap was just a regular cap with a round sticker glued og ironed to it. Which was starting to tear...), stamps, and also a newspaper with the story of the year. Or something.
Back at the apartment, I wanted to try out my gear before the big day. Always a good idea. It all went well. Almost too well... So I was kinda ready for the eclipse the day after. Although using new gear is always a chance. There are a million ways for it to fail.

New gear, new ways of failing...

Later that evening I went down to the beach to meet up with my friend Andy. I love walking by the sea. Something soothing about it. Guess it has something to do with me growing up by the sea...

Famous lighthouse down by the beach

Solar clock

Me and Andy sampling a burger and some local fizzy called Cactus...

And along the promenade, I found several vendors of eclipse gear. Of course... Andy told me there were loads of vendors along the beach where he lived... Now I know. He and his stepson planned to just watch the eclipse from the beach. While I was heading up the hills. We agreed to meet after the eclipse for some local steak and some football. Soccer to the 'mericans...
I spent the rest of the evening packing and repacking. Just to make sure I had everything. And went to bed early. I had an early rise. Hoping to beat the crowds.

Ragnar
Serenading for an eclipse

Chillin' in Chile

"How much time do I have?" a worried passenger asked. The guy behind the desk checked his computer. "40 minutes. But it is from the same terminal, so you should be fine!". The passenger nodded his head. Not convinced. But accepting his fate. Our flight out of Oslo was running late. The plane had still not arrived, and we were past our scheduled departure. Some people were getting worried about their connections.
From experience, I know that a lot of people hate waiting around airports, so they schedule as short stops as possible. Understandable. But I am not most people. I am a traveller. With many trips under my belt, I always account for the unknown. Although I hope it doesn't occur, it normaly does. So when others are stressed out, I sit down and my hearbeat slow down. And my blood pressure sink. Nothing to worry about.
July 2nd. I have a date with the Moon's shadow. My 11th time. I have had mostly successes. Expect the brutal failure in Shanghai 2009. Trying not to think about that. My destination : La Silla Observatory in Chile. I learned that they were going to sell 300 exclusive tickets to come and watch the eclipse from the observatory. I was game. On the day and the hour the tickets were put up for sale, I clicked the link, and got mysef a ticket. They were sold out in no time.
It is of course a chance. Locked in one place, the weather might not be good at that spot. But just the chance to visit the observatory was reason enough for me to go there. But hoping for clear skies at the critical moment, at least. Totality. According to the information I had, the totality will last 1 minute 52 seconds from La Silla. Much shorter than on the central line. But I was willing to sacrifice half a minute this time, for a great spot.
After arriving about 1 hour late in London, I located my gate. There was still plenty of time. So I wandered off. Looking at planes, people, shops. Checked my cellphone. Chatted with friends. Wandered back to the gate. They informed us there was a technical issue with our plane. And it needed to be fixed before we could take off. This would be my longest flight ever. 14 hours 50 minutes according to the schedule. I dreaded the prospect, but then again, better one long than several short hops. And it would be mostly during night anyway.
Half an hour became one hour, which became one and a half hour. They brought racks of drinks and snacks. One kid thought he'd died and gone to heaven. He pushed his way through the crowd and grabbed as much as he could of candybars, crisps and drinks, and ran excited back to his parents. "Look what I managed to grab!" Dropping his loot onto his chair with excitement. I managed to get a granolabar and a bottle of water before the racks were empty. The water was the most important thing. I was thirsty. It was late, and I was ready to go to sleep. Tired. Thirsty.
One and a half hour later, we were ready for boarding. No more delays. I found my seat, popped my luggage in the overhead locker and sat down. I was supposed to sit in the middle seat, but luckily, there were two guys there travelling together, so they asked if I wanted the isle seat. I smiled and nodded. Saved! Not the dreaded midseat for 15 hours!
I don't sleep well on planes. But I think I am getting old. Because lately, I have slept like a baby for several hours. This flight was no exception. I got maybe 4 hours. The other 9 hours was spent trying to sleep, eating, or waiting for food, watching tv-series and movies, bathroom trips, isle gym and watching the plane move on the live map. The flying equivalent of watching paint dry. And trying to ignore the baby on the row ahead of ours, screaming at times when it needed a new diaper, more food, or just a cuddle.

Morning from 41000 feet.

Finally, after 15 loooong hours, we slid down between the beautiful snowcapped mountains surrounding Santiago and touched down on the runway. It was a cool 5 degreees centigrade. And I was wearing shorts... What can I say, it was 22 in Oslo when I left. First. Passport control. For some reason, the line I am in, is always the slowest. They directed some parts of the queue to other officers. But never my part of the queue. So I saw one line behind me after the other disappearing. While my queue was snailing along. The hall was nearly empty when I finally, as part of the last group, could drop my passport at the counter. The lady behind the window looked at my passport. Looked at me. Hammered in some info on her computer. I tried imaginging her saying "Computer says NO!", but managed not to smile. She stamped my passport, and said "Welcome to Chile!". I nodded and left. Next was customs. Another loooong line. I walked through the "nothing to declare" gate. Expecting that was it. It wasn't. Another line. People getting picked for random search. I was waved through. Finally! I was in Chile. Now for some cash. I walked outside and found an ATM. As usual, my line had a guy in front who looked like he had never used an ATM before. So he spent AGES reading every detail on the screen before pressing any keys. And when he got the money, he counted it a billion times. In front of the ATM. I sighed. Finally, he was satisfied and left. It was my turn. I withdrew 100 000 pesos. I love foreing money. Makes me feel rich. Next. Taxi. Mr Conman approached me. "Taxi sir?" he asked. Flashing his fake sign in front of me. My brain in dribble-mode, the obvious was obscure. I had already read up on taxies, and the advice was "get a metered taxi". So during the short bursts of cognitive function my brain was able to conjure up, I asked "metered taxi?" He nodded and his face lit up with the fakest innocence this side of the galaxy. If you know what to look for, it is obvious. But after 15 hours on the plane, and little sleep, I was lucky to be able to walk and talk at the same time.
He called his buddy and after a while, I sat in his "metered taxi". And negotiations could begin.
Mr Nice guy : "Ok. You pay now!"
Me : "Whaaat?"
Mr Nice guy : "80!"
Me : "80???"
Mr Nice guy : "80!" (with the least convincing sincerity in the history of lies)
Me : "80 THOUSAND pesos??? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!" I was laughing so hard they probably heard me clean across the tarmac.
Me : "Thanks, but no thanks! I'll grab another 'taxi'"
Mr Nice guy : "OK! 40!"
Me : "30!"
Mr Nice Guy : "OK!"
I looked at him. He was WAY too happy with that price, and I knew that even 30 was WAY too much. "Sucker!". I paid, and my driver screamed out of the airport. And with his eyes more on his phone than on the road, a few near misses, and a lot of swearing, we arrived. I got out, and got my luggage. The driver asked in broken English : "A tip for me senor?" I laughed. "Neuuuuu!" He left.
The guy at the front desk let me in, took my name and my passport number and sent me up to room 210. There, my host was awaiting me. I didn't expect much, to be honest. The building reminded me more of a run down, reutilized factory building than an apartment block. But the apartment was astonishing. I said "WOW!" out loud when I entered. I so didn't expect that. Admittingly, I am not a design geek, but I loved how he had "decorated" his apartment. It was very fitting for the area. A very "artsy" neighbourhood. Posters, furniture, artwork and everything made this into what I suspect would be a designer's or artlover's dream place. Nothing seemed to be accidental. He showed me the ropes of the do's and dont's, and left me with the key.
My body and brain told me to sleep. My experience told me to get out and explore. My host had given me some pointers for what to see, where to eat. And I also had a short list myself for what to see and do. The apartment was smack dab in the middle of all of it. Just short (for me that is) walks away.
My first stop was the funicular. Just around the corner. I felt hungry, so I dropped it for now and walked down the street to where my host had told me I could find an area with lots of restaurants and food stalls. My body was screaming for some sugar. So I got lured into buying a crepe with strawberries and Nutella. LOTS of Nutella. Whoa! Sugar rush! I was ready for some exploring! Somebody stop me!
Only 15-20 minute walk away, I arrived at the "start of Santiago". A small hill with a castle/fortress on it. This was where it all started a long long time ago in this very galaxy. I climbed to the top and was greeted with a great view of the surrounding city. And shot a few snaps. I felt a bit awkward given all the couples who were there mostly to take wefies kissing. Tried to ignore them and take pictures of the surroundings, and the buildings on the hill.

This cannon has seen better days...

On my way down again, I needed to find a place to relieve myself. Much to my relief (pardon the pun), there was a "baños" at the site. 300 pesos to enter. After enjoying the view of what must have been the most pissridden toiletseat in the history of pissridden toilets, I tried washing my hands. None of the fossits worked. The lady running the loo said "No agua!". Or soap. Or air freshener... Oh well.
I walked abck into the streets of modern Santiago. The area was great. Walking the street filled with people, small cafés, shops, old buildings. I tried pinning down how walking in Santiago felt like. And the closest thing I could find was a mix between New York and, of all places, Oslo. With a sprinkle of Chicago. Some monumental buildings, and tall highrises. But also quiet streets. And the feel of Oslo. Maybe it was the weather. The buildings. I don't know. But I liked it. I liked it a lot. And it was incredibly easy to find my way around. With mountains and certain tall buildings as triangulation points, I could find my way. Never missed once. Walked straight to were I was heading, and found my way back without checking my phone once. Loved it!
I walked back to the artsy area I was living in, and enjoyed walking around. Looking at the street art, of which there was an abundance. From simple grafitti to really advanced paintings. Small shops, cafes and restaurants. I took a load of images. Mostly crappy. But some at least was able to depict the art.

I ended up at the funicular again. There was just a short line. Probably due to the bismal weather. Cold with some drizzle in the air. I tried figuring out the prices. There were a lot of them. But finally deciphered that I wanted a round trip to the top. I paid and got in line for the trip up the hill. They have the same thing in Bergen, Norway. In case you are wondering what a funicular is, it is basically a train going up a really steep hill. Only that the cars are made in such a way that u are standing on a horizontal floor the whole trip.

We started on the ascent. I love the tingling in the belly as we ascended. After a short trip, we stopped. I thought the trip was longer. I got off, and walked into the park. A woman shouted at me. I turned around, and she demanded a few dollars for entering the park. I was a bit surprised. Until i realized we hadn't come to the top. We had stopped at the zoo-entrance... "Oh well" I thought and shelled out the pesos for the ticket and entered. The zoo seemed to be nice. Until I came across a jaguar in a small cage. It was obvious from his behaviour he was frustrated out of his mind. Walking endlessly back and forth in front of the fence. Sometimes topping and growling, before continuing his endless routine. It hurts to see this, so I left. Didn't want to see anymore. I don't mind zoo's or animal reserves. But at least TRY to make it comfortable for the animals.

I cought the next train upwards to the top. And was rewarded with a spectacular view of the city. And a giant statue of Mary. Like in most South American countries. Mary is important. Jesus was just her baby... Or at least that is what it feels like at times.

After enjoying the view, and taking far too many pictures, I took the funicular back down again. Back at the apartment, I realized how cold it was. Santiago was cold, and there was no central heating. Only a gas stove. I lit it, and the warmth beamed out at me. I wore thick clothes till I went to bed. Fell asleep directly. Tired after the trip, and the long day. Even the "Omphh! Omphh!" of the surrounding discos couldn't keep me awake.
I woke up, and looked at my watch. 8 am. I wanted to sleep some more. Closed my eyes. Then my head started working again. 8? Ummm... It was very dark in here. At 8 o'clock? Argh! My watch was still on Norway time. It was 2 am... Jet lag! After a quick trip to the bathroom in a balmy 10 degrees, I jumped back under the layers of wool and duvet. And managed to fall asleep again. But after a few hours, it was really 8 am, and I got up. And got into the shower. Enjoying the warm water. But also hating the fact that the part of my body not in the stream of water, was even colder than before. It was wet, and the temperature was loooow. So I tried to squeeze my body into the shower. All at once. In the end I gave up. And in a record-breaking attempt at drying, I was in my clothes faster than my shadow. I walked down the stairs to the main room and lit the gas stove. I also noted that downstairs was clearly colder than upstairs... So I got upstairs. Put my phone on the charger and waited for it to be ready before heading out. While I ate some delicious bread I bought from a bakery on the corner, the evening before.
This day I had only two things planned, the sky deck of the talles building in South America, and the Plaza de Armas. I get the feeling that any city in South America has a Plaza de Armas. At least all the places I visited the previous times I have been here, had one.
I walked towards the tower. I didn't see it due to a hill being in the way, but I had the general direction, so I started walking. Seeing street-cleaners and dogs sweeping the streets after last nights parties. The dogs sifting through garbage to find a piece of food left there. Drinking from the thick dark liquid by the curb. A dogs life indeed.

The walk along the river to the tower was a nice one. Enjoying statues and art along the walls of the canal.

From a distance, the tower was....errr...towering taller and taller as I was nearing. It looked almost unfinished due to the design of the top deck. With four "petals" enclosing the deck below. Allowing for an open air view of the city.

I had to wad through a shopping mall to get to the entrance. Stopping to watch a cute dropping fountain that "drew" things in the air with water.

They had some ticket vending machines. I flipped out my card, popped it in and selected a ticket. Out came first my receipt, then what I assumed was the ticket. Complete with QR code. I walked through security, and tried to bleep my toket. It refused. A guard there asked for my ticket. She looked at it and said "you forgot the ticket!". She smiled and ran to the vending machine and returned with the third print. THE ticket. Have no idea what the second print was supposed to be. But anyways. I was through. Soon, the elevator returned to the ground floor, and the small group of people entered along with me. The weather and the time of day obviously made the trip less interesting to people. More the space for me. The elevator started and we zoomed up the 61 floors to the top. My ears had to be popped a couple of times on the way. The doors opened, and "WOW". What a view! And unlike Willis Tower in Chicago, Sky Tree in Tokyo or Burj Kalilfa in Dubai, the place wasn't packed. Just a few people wandered around, taking selfies. I loved it. Had plenty of space to take photos and take in the view.

I'm soooo high! In a good way...

And then I took the escalator to the top deck. Under open air. Since it was open air, it meant that the floors were wet from the rain showers. Chilly. But fresh. I loved it. And there were nobody there. Just me and my lonesomeness. And a few guards and a guy wiping rainwater off the floor... The air smelled fresher up here than down on the streets. Maybe it was just a feeling. But I drew a few lungfulls of it before strolling around. Taking pictures. Just looking. Enjoying the view.

I don't know how long I stayed, but I just wanted to stay as long as possible. But I knew I had one more place to visit before calling it a day. Plaza de Armas. On the other side of Recoleta. The city area I lived. And I needed some food. So a bit unwillingly, I got on the elevator again, and it zoomed us down to 5th floor. Souvenirs and food. Of course. I found a spot that sold chicken, and sat down by the windows and took in the view.
I walked to Plaza de Armas along the river. A beautiful walk taking in the street art, the bridges with both "love-padlocks" and what appeared to be memories of deceased loved ones.

Memorabilias from deceased people(?)

Love-locks

Before arriving at the place. The rain had started. So I was mostly standing below the trees, taking some photos when I could, and just did what I do best, people watching.

One little detail I loved here, were the traffic lights. Watch this video to the end, and watch the "walker". :-D

Walking back to the apartment, I came across a telescope shop. Closed, unfortunately. But I decided to check it out when I came back from La Serena. I called it a day, went back to the apartment, and spent the rest of the evening figuring out how to get out of Santiago. Only stopped on the way for a local dog and some snacks for the next days driving.

I spent the evening memorizing the turns and crossroads from Google Maps street view. Whether I would actually manage to get out or be forever lost, was something for another day.

Ragnar
Chillin' it in Chile