Serenading

I had spent the previous night "driving" the route I would take out of Santiago from the car rental company. I had a shower and a quick snack before walking the same route. I noticed all the trigger points where I was supposed to turn or exit. Before calling it a night, I went up to the rooftop veranda of the building and took a few pictures of the city lights below the darkening skies. The cool breeze was fresh. The sounds of the city dampened. The local pubs and bars, not so much. But again, I was still jetlagged and fell asleep easily.

I woke, as expected, early the next day too. But managed to stay in bed until the time was ripe to get up. I had a date with a car renatl company to get a car at 9 am. I wanted to get out as soon as possible as not to arrive in La Serena to late in the afternoon. And without having to speed too much to get there. It was a 470 km drive, so not too bad.
I had planned to walk the route I was planning to drive so I could check all the turns and crossroads along the way to make sure I had remembered them correctly. I got up, and after a quick shower, I ate a quick breakfast of the same bread as before from the corner shop. I wasn't sure they were open so early on a Sunday morning, so I stopped by on my way back the evening before.
I packed my bags and headed out. Left the key at the reception and left. The streets were wet from the rain. Not posessing an umbrella, I was hoping it would stay clear at least until I had reached the car rental office.
The walk was nice. The streets empty. At half past seven, most people were probably sleeping off the party from last night. My wheely suitcase was the nosiest thing. Making a rumble across the sidewalk. I felt like I was waking everyone up. Almost halfway to the rental office, my bladder started complaining. I think I have a pea-sized bladder. I would probably have made it to the rental office, but I hate thinking about it all the time. So I started looking for somewhere to relieve myself. And much to my surprise, I found one of those "festival-toilets", parked by the sidewalk across the street. I walked across. It was open. And way too small for me and my bags. I checked around, and parked my suitcase and entered. Still a tight fit, but I managed. No water. No nothing there. So I guess they had just parked it there... Oh well. I needed to go. So. Checked the area once more. Nobody had seen me. I pulled out my desinfecting gel and rubbed my hands in it. Would do for handwash for now. I started thinking about the odd placement. Maybe they had just parked it here to pick up later? And now it had my... Oh well.
After about an hour of walking, I reached the office. It was closed. I checked my watch. 8.40. I looked inside. Some movement there, so I was hopeful they would open soon. I looked around and saw a gas station across the street. Walked over there and bought some chocolate, crisps and some drink for the drive. As I got back, they had opened the gates, and a guy had just arrived with a car to return. I snuck under the gate and entered the office. A guy who spoke excellent english, much to my relief, greeted me and took my details.
"The car we have for you is a diesel. Do you mind?" I didn't mind. They often feel stronger than their gasoline counterparts. Not that I needed it. After registering, I went out to go over my car with a guy who spoke absolutely no english. He spoke in length about the spare wheel and all the tools in the trunk and how to use it. I nodded and understood nothing. But just hoped I wouldn't need any of it. In the end, he asked "comprende?". I smiled. "Si senor! Gracias!". He was happy, and handed me the key. I was ready to go. Got my gear in the car, got in the front seat and pushed the key. After a few seconds, the engine roared to life. Spent a few moments figuring out the levers and the gear shift. I started inching my way through the narrow paths in the parking lot. All while running the route through my head.
I drove with images in my head for all trigger points. At the same time as trying to keep an eye on the traffic and the lights. A total of 10 trigger points, and 10 minutes or so, I was on "ruta 5 norte". Out of Santiago, en route to La Serena.
The speed was increasing as I headed into the mountains. So was the thickness of the morning fog. I kept the speed I felt comfy with. Every toll point, a small box on the windshield gave off a happy little "bleep". There were a few, to say the least, before I reached open landscape. Or at least I think it was. The fog was so thick I saw maybe 100 meters in any direction. But it felt more countrysidy.
It took maybe an hour before the fog started lifting, and I could enjoy the view around me. And what a view! Beautiful mountain landscape. I took some photos through the windshield. Yeah I know. But without a passenger to do it...

 

 It would eventually be a 5.5 hour drive. With a few stops underway. The trip was magnificent. With a backdrop of the Andes at the beginning, wonderful deep canyons in the middle, and beautiful seascape the rest of the way. I didn't manage to take photos of everything, given the road was a bit turny at times, and I needed both hands of the wheel. Surprisingly, there was very little traffic. Especially given the fact that there would be a solar eclipse two days later.
After an eventless (more or less) 5.5 hours of driving, I had arrived at La Serena. I drove over a hill, and there it was beneath me. I had again memorized the map where I was supposed to drive. This main highway kinda split up in the middle of La Serena. As I closed in on where I was supposed to exit the road, I expected a ramp of some kind. Given this was a main highway. But much to my surprise, it was a roundabaout. And not only that, it had several layers of crossroad intertwined in it. Among other things, a railroad crossing. Not excactly what you would expect in the middle of a highway.
I got off, managed to avoid running any red lights, or running over any pedestrians, and I was in the general area where my apartment would be. I found the street and drove towards the lower numbers. All the way to the end, was the apartment block. I turned and parked on the other side of the street. It was a gated area. I sent a text to my host, and he sent an associate. As I was sitting there in my car, a couple in a car stopped, rolled down the windows, and started yelling at me. I didn't understand one word, but from the way he waved his hands, I got the picture. I nodded, drove around the block and parked in the same spot. But, of course, I started thinking about how it looked. A stranger parked across the street in a car? If you consume enough cop shows, you know what that means...
After an eternety of 20 minutes, with me wondering when the cops would show up, guns drawn, the associate arrived. Again, no English. So I just nodded when she explained. But I understood I should just drive up to the gate, and the gatekeeper (...) would let me in. She pointed to a parking spot. With the number of my apartment painted on the ground. After fiddling for a few minutes trying to park properly, I got out and tried to open the trunk to get my bag out. It wouldn't open. Yay to modern electronics! I tried using the keys. Nothing. Tried to find a lever. Nothing. In the end, I had to lock the car and open it again before it allowed me to access the trunk. I mumbled some words while shaking my head. She smiled.
Up the stairs to the apartment. It was big. With a lot of bedrooms. So I could stay in one bedroom per night... As per usual, the apartment was cold. But it did have a few electric ovens. So I would be good. I hoped. She showed me the ropes. How to turn on the water heater, the gas for the kitchen stove, and plug in the microwave... And before she left, she was trying to explain something about the key. I shook my head, and she picked up her phone and read into it. She got something back in Chinese. She tried again. Siri answered in Spanish. Another try. It was translated into Dutch. I shook my head. She gave up, and tried showing me. My brain lit up. "Ah! Leave la llave on table when salida?" I said in a mix of Spanish and English and hand gestures. She smiled. "Siiii!" Elementary. She left.
After unpacking, I walked outside. Wanted to go to the shopping mall I passed on the way. It was a mile away or so, so just a short walk. It looked like a WalMart (and I later learned that WalMart had bought the chain of stores to which it belongs), but it made all the WalMarts I had seen in the US look like hole-in-the-walls. It was HUGE! I needed some supplies, so I thought it would be the perfect place.

Errrr.... Tsunami???

After picking up some food, snacks and drinks, I headed for the cashier. She bleebed it all and asked me a question. I had now idea what she said, so I just shook my head, assuming it was a "do you have a membership card" question. She finished bleeping and I put my card in. And then stood there waiting for my bag. I cought the attention of a girl standing nearby. She asked me a question. To which I responded with the universal shoulders up. She talked with the cashier, and she demanded money. 110 pesos. I gave her the money, and the girls took the bag and filled my groceries into it. Easy peasy. Stupido turistas...
I had bought an ice-cream, and enjoyed it while walking back to the apartment. The sun was going down, and I was ready to hit the sack. Still a bit jetlagged. I tried turning the two ovens on, but realized that the main fuse in the apartment really could only handle one of them. If I put both on, it blew. So I decided to put one of them in the bedroom to heat it a little before I went to sleep. It was nice to slide under the duvet after a long day driving.
The next day I went to search for any eclipse souvenirs. If there is one thing there is enough of, usually at least, it is souvenir stuff. But much to my surprise. I found none. Nothing in the mall. Nothing on the streets. I walked up and down and everywhere. Nothing. But later in the day, I came a cross a lonely street vendor. Selling caps and t-shirts. Finally. Not the best I had seen, but at least it was something. And inside the mall, they has started selling eclipse glasses in connection with a book signing by some local astronomer and astrphysicist, Jose Meza. I bought a couple of the glasses. I knew I would get some at La Silla the next day, but I like to buy some local souvenir types too.

Not much going on here. Even the street dogs found it boring...

Back at the apartment, I checked social media and found that a friend of mine was in town. I didn't know, so I contacted him, and we arranged to meet at the beach that evening. I also found that Mr Eclipse himself, Fred Espenak, had found some eclipse stamps. Issued by the Chilean postal service. I just had to get me some. Back at the mall, and after asking a bunch of people, I finally found a small room, packed to the rafters with packages and letters. And behind a desk sat a lone woman. I asked in perfect Spanglish : "Stampada, eclipse?". She knew what I wanted. I bought 5. Felt a bit odd to just buy one...
So now I had a few souvenirs. A t-shirt, a cap (although the cap was just a regular cap with a round sticker glued og ironed to it. Which was starting to tear...), stamps, and also a newspaper with the story of the year. Or something.
Back at the apartment, I wanted to try out my gear before the big day. Always a good idea. It all went well. Almost too well... So I was kinda ready for the eclipse the day after. Although using new gear is always a chance. There are a million ways for it to fail.

New gear, new ways of failing...

Later that evening I went down to the beach to meet up with my friend Andy. I love walking by the sea. Something soothing about it. Guess it has something to do with me growing up by the sea...

Famous lighthouse down by the beach

Solar clock

Me and Andy sampling a burger and some local fizzy called Cactus...

And along the promenade, I found several vendors of eclipse gear. Of course... Andy told me there were loads of vendors along the beach where he lived... Now I know. He and his stepson planned to just watch the eclipse from the beach. While I was heading up the hills. We agreed to meet after the eclipse for some local steak and some football. Soccer to the 'mericans...
I spent the rest of the evening packing and repacking. Just to make sure I had everything. And went to bed early. I had an early rise. Hoping to beat the crowds.

Ragnar
Serenading for an eclipse