mandag 29. september 2025

Getaway, Aral style

It was late. I had tried to follow where we were on the map. But being a cheap phone, and the 5G, or even 3G coverage was terrible. So I didn't really know for sure. But the announcer said we had arrived at Alaskye Moye. The train station of Aral town. I stood at the doorway and wondered "where's the platform excactly?". No platform. Just a half meter jump down to the dirt between the tracks. I managed to get down the few steps of the ladder before jumping the last bit. I landed safely. Not breaking anything. And then crossed a few railroad tracks.

It was dark. And I couldn't find any taxis. A lot of cars. But just people picking up relatives from the train. In the end, they were all gone. And I stood there. In a deserted station. And no taxies. I pulled out my phone, and checked the map. In the dark, I could make out the road. Barely. But I started walking.

After a minute, I heard the sound of a car that obviously had seen better days. And shortly, it came jumping and screeching across the pot-holed road. An old Lada. So old, I suspect it was born when Brechnev was big chief in Moscow. And the guy driving it looked like he could have shaken hands with Stalin. "Taxi?" he screemed as he passed me. He stopped his car a few meters behind me and got out. 

Him : "Taxi?"

Me  : "How much?" showing the international sign for cash.

Him : "Something in Russian" showing me five fingers.

Me  : "5 THOUSAND???" I started laughing. 

Him : "No, no!"

He took out a 500 note. I smiled. "Ah! Da!". I dumped my bag in the trunk and got in on the passenger side. The engine roared into life and he floored it. I tried to put on my seatbelt. He started laughing. Loudly. Waved his hand explaining that it wasn't required. I smiled. It didn't work either. So I had no choice. I tried to hold on as best I could while we jumped around on the terrible roads. Finally, we entered the central parts of town. He almost smashed right into another car, but slipped around with the smallest of margins. He didn't even lift his foot off the gas-pedal. I have looked Death in the eyes before. On many occasions. I don't know if that fact was to blame, but the near-crash didn't frighten me. But I was hoping we would arrive before either of us died.

In the end, we screeched to a halt in front of my hotel. I got my bag out and paid him the 500 tenge (about $1). Despite it all, this was the best taxi ride so far in Kazakhstan.

Ragnar

Survivor


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