Ragnar's World: Splashy Sunday

Saturday evening, Gayane warned us. "Tomorrow, Vartavar". This is a day when everyone drenches anyone they can with water. I had to smile, but the prospect didn't really appeal to me either, given that I had very limiter amounts of clothes. But when in Rome...
I woke up early. Had booked a tour to see some of the churches in this country. Armenia was the first country in the world to adopt christianity as a state religion. And I and three others were embarking on a tour to see some of the oldest churches in the country. In addition to taste some local cousine at a small village named Khor Virap.
I had my breakfast. Gayane had cooked some sausages, and added half a tomato to the mix. Both tasted delicious. I packed all water sensitive stuff in my bag. My passport was already in a sealed plastic bag. Ready for anything, I ventured out into the now insecure streets of Yerevan. Everytime I saw sombody, I checked to see if they had access to a bucket, or a bottle. I checked windows and balconies of buildings I walked past. Nothing. Finally, I arrived at the hostel where the tour should start. I put my guard down. Up and behind me, I heard the unmistable sound of a bucket being emptied. Before I could react, the water splashed down my right side. Soaking my clothes. I looked up, but saw nobody. Just heard them yelling something. Guess it was a blessing (which splashing someone is supposed to be). Soaking wet, I entered the reception. The receptionist looked empathic at me. "Sorry about that! I don't like this day. But it is a tradition.". He offered me to borrow a hairdryer. I brought it to the men's room and dried off my clothes.
Camilla, Jennifer and Romero were on the tour with me. Together we were embarking on the tour of the churches of Armenia. At least some of them. Our two guides Arschrem (probably not correct spelling) and Mone guided us through.
First stop was Echmiadzin. Here we visited three churches. St. Echmiadzin, St. Hripsime and St. Gayane. Hripsime was a nun in the Roman Empire. She was very beautiful, and a the Roman emperor Diocletian took a liking to her, and proposed to her. She refused, saying that she had devoted her life to God. He didn't take the refusal lightly, and decided to force her to marry him. She managed to escape, together with 37 other nuns, to Armenia. When he found out, he sent a letter to the Armenian king Trdat telling him what had happened. And asking him to return her. But if he liked her, he could take her for himself. The Armenian king found her, and fell in love with her. He proposed, but again she refused, because he was a pagan king. He became furious and had her tortured and killed. Gayane was the abbesse of the 37 who fled. Trdat also liked her. But she also refused his proposal. And he had her tortured and killed too. Later, king Trdat was converted to Christianity and introduced Christianity as state religion.
St. Echmiadzin is the head church in Armenia. We attended part of the Sunday sermon there. Our guides told us that it was considered a great honor to sing at sermons here, so they always had some of the best singers on the country. Often operasingers and others. The song was indeed some of the most amazing I have ever heard. Unfortunately, given that the church was full of tourists, and that many of them were more preoccupied with discussing the architecture and dinner plans, I didn't fully manage to enjoy it.
Next stop, Khor Virap, where Christianity started in Armenia. It was originally a prison. Gregory (called The Illuminator) was thrown into a deep hole in the ground, and left there to die, after king Trdat discovered that Gregory's father had killed his father. The story goes that a local woman, a Christian, fed him every day. Many years later, the king developed desease that made his face become disfigured. His mother had a vision that Gregory should pray for him and heal him. Trdat thinks Gregory is dead. But after repeated visions by hs mother, he goes to the pit, throws down a rope and calls for him. To his surprise, Gregory is alive. He takes him out, Gregory prays for him, and he is healed. Afterwards, the king tears down all pagan temples in the country and replaces them with churches.
At this point of the tour, we were full of information, and empty on calories. In other words, lunch were in order. We stopped at the house of a local artisan in Khor Virap. His wife did the cooking. The meal consisted of an abundance of local cousine. Wonderfully prepared. My favorite was the home made tomato sauce. Just out of this world delicious.
While waiting for the lunch to be prepared, Mone told us how boys and girls met in the old days. The girls were told every day to go to the village well to get water. The boys normally hung out by this well. So that was their chance to meet and get to know each other, fall in love and finally, get married. "The Facebook of those days."
Full on delicious food, we got back into the car and drove 1.5 hours across mountanious landscape to the Noravank church. This was set on a beautiful hill-top. The story goes that the church was built by a poor sculptor and painter Momik. He wanted to marry the daughter of a local prince. But the prince didn't want this poor man to marry her, but he told him that if he could build something amazing for her, he would allow them to get married. So he decided to build an astonishing church. Two years later, the church was finished. The prince knew he had built something amazing, but didn't want his daughter to marry the guy, so he sent his soldiers, and they threw him off the church tower. Killing him.
Lots of tragic stories behind the churches. Unfortunately. But I guess that is the story of early Christianity. Numerous were killed for their faith. Beheaded, stoned or thrown to the lions at the Collosseum. In some countries, Christians still are prosecuted, tortured and killed for their faith.
Some pictures from today's tour.

St. Hripsime church

The grave of Hripsime

St. Hripsime

One of the TWO nuns in Armenia. Outside St. Gayane church

In Armenia, they still practice ritual sacrifice of animals as thanks for healings and survival. This boy was obviously the one who had survived. And was blessed by the priest.

Inside the church

Another priest is blessing the salt that is to be used in the animal sacrifice.

St. Echmiadzin church

From another angle.

This image of the Persian king was carved into the church to prevent his soldiers from tearing down the church. Saying that it was built in "his honor".